Rockcliffe Square

How the River Lea plays and outsize role in UK’s social history

Area’s population has had a hand in philanthropy, the foundation of unions, workers and women’s rights and female suffrage

Today the Bryant And May Match Factory has been converted into residential apartments, but it was once the scene of a history-making strike - image by Jon Massey / Wharf Life
Today the Bryant And May Match Factory has been converted into residential apartments, but it was once the scene of a history-making strike – image by Jon Massey / Wharf Life

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The world can seem an increasingly bleak place.

The relentless digital news machines deliver a steady diet of shock and awe at callous acts of brutality by humans the world over. 

One antidote to this pipeline of 24-hour misery is to take a step back from the present to look back and realise how far we’ve come in some areas. 

Roughly six and a half generations ago (191 years, to be exact), it was legal in Britain for one person to own another. It took a further 31 years for the USA to  abolish slavery.

 The freedoms and rights we enjoy today all have their roots in the toil and struggle of people who led lives unimaginably impoverished compared with our own and – in the grand scheme of things – not all that long ago. 

This is precisely why we need to study history and develop places that showcase and highlight the collective achievements and missteps of our species.  

An artist's impression of how Cody Dock's Heritage Pavilion will look when installed - image by Cody Dock
An artist’s impression of how Cody Dock’s Heritage Pavilion will look when installed – image by Cody Dock

a Heritage Pavilion on the River Lea

That is one of the missions that Cody Dock, an ecological regeneration project on the edge of Canning Town, is undertaking through its Heritage Pavilion project.

The structure will be built as part of a £1.6million National Lottery Heritage Fund grant, using the restored hull of Welsh lifeboat the Frederick Kitchen – likely the last vessel built at the Thames Ironworks – as its roof. 

The glazed space will host quarterly exhibitions on the history of the area, with a special focus on the River Lea.

As anticipation builds for the pavilion’s launch, this is the second in a series of articles in a partnership between Wharf Life and Cody Dock to draw attention to some of the topics that will be featured.

The banks and marshlands around rivers are well known for their fertility. 

The nutrient-heavy silts washed up by the constant flow of water, make for rich soils and abundant growth.

Factor in their historic use as corridors of trade, transport and migration and it’s little wonder that city waterways conveyed similar prosperity on the operations along their banks. 

The Lea once bristled with industries that demanded sprawling communities of workers.

This human tide, forced to contend with extraordinary deprivation and shocking conditions, was in itself a potent force and one of the reasons east London has played an outsize role in the nation’s social history. 

Here, people stood up, fought for better lives and succeeded. The four stories below aim to offer a flavour of just some of their remarkable achievements.

Harper Twelvetrees based his Imperial Chemical Works alongside the Lea - image by Jon Massey / Wharf Life
Harper Twelvetrees based his Imperial Chemical Works alongside the Lea – image by Jon Massey / Wharf Life

echoes of the past along the River Lea

Close to West Ham station, Berkeley Group is currently building a housing development called TwelveTrees Park.

That branding isn’t a reference to some long forgotten copse with a dozen pines, but a name from history.

The scheme is located on land near Twelvetrees Crescent, a road named for entrepreneur, factory owner, chemist, writer, campaigner and inspiring philanthropist, Harper Twelvetrees.

In his time, much of east London was a patchwork of industrial operations and slums, the latter housing the workers for the former.

The author Charles Dickens visited nearby Canning Town and wrote in 1857: “The houses are built in rows; but there being no roads, the ways are so unformed that the parish will not take charge of them.

“We come to a row of houses built with their backs to a stagnant ditch.

“We turn aside to see the ditch and find that it is a cesspool, so charged with corruption, that not a trace of vegetable matter grows upon its surface, bubbling and seething with the constant rise of the foul products of decomposition, that the pool pours into the air. 

“The filth of each house passes through a short pipe straight into this ditch and stays there.”

Later on the same visit, he finds “three ghostly little children lying on the ground, hung with their faces over another pestilential ditch, breathing the poison of the bubbles as it rose and fishing about with their hands in the filth for something, perhaps for something nice to eat”.

Dickens’ bitterly ironic depiction of the dirty, blighted lives of the workers and their families around Bidder Street near the Lea is a stark picture of the kinds of conditions people endured a little over a century and a half ago in the name of industrial progress.

While plenty of business owners were content to exploit their employees, others had more progressive, compassionate ideas.

Born in Bedfordshire and originally apprenticed as a printer and a bookseller, Harper Twelvetrees developed an interest in chemistry.

Moving to London in 1848 he initially sold laundry products from other manufacturers in Holborn while working on a plan to make his own.

Having set up a small factory in Islington, in 1858 he moved production to a larger site on the banks of the River Lea at Bromley-By-Bow, just over the water from Three Mills. 

Moving to the heart of the complex himself, he set about improving the lives of his workers – 400 at the peek of his Imperial Chemical Works’ success. 

He built rows of cottages to house them, invested in a library, opened a lecture theatre, put on evening classes, organised sewing circles, created a clothing club and hosted non-denominational services.

There was even support for sick workers through a benevolent fund.

In 1861, the Stratford Times wrote: “Instead of dirty, narrow lanes bounded by high walls, now there are to be seen neat, commodious and well-built cottages, flanking tidy roads. 

“The old population is losing its distinctive traits before a new, fresh and vigorous class that is rapidly settling amongst them and giving an air of busy life and incessant occupation to a place, which once wore an empty gloom hardly redeemed by the wild rush of waters roaring in the adjacent mill-stream.” 

Philanthropy can be fragile, however.

Twelvetrees’ deal to sell his business in 1865 went bad, resulting in bankruptcy, although he did start up again on the other side of Bow at Cordova Works off Grove Road, eventually going on to produce washing machines and mangles. 

A blue plaque marking the location in Bromley-By-Bow of the Match Girls' Strike - image by Jon Massey / Wharf Life
A blue plaque marking the location in Bromley-By-Bow of the Match Girls’ Strike – image by Jon Massey / Wharf Life

lighting a fire

Collective effort is where lasting gains are often made.

While some workers in east London were relatively well treated by those making money off their sweat, others were not.

In July 1888, the women and teenage girls working at the Bryant & May match factory in Bow went out on strike.

There had been previous periods of industrial action over pay and punitive fines – sanctioning the often barefoot workers for dirty feet, untidy workbenches, lateness and dropped matches – but they had all failed.

1888, however, was different. 

Atrocious working conditions including 14-hour days and the horrific ravages of phossy jaw – an industrial disease caused by exposure to the white phosphorus used in match production which killed a fifth of sufferers – were taking a terrible toll. 

Social activists Annie Besant and Herbert Burrows became involved in the cause, publishing an article that angered managers at the factory, who attempted to get their workers to sign a statement repudiating its claims. 

When they refused, a worker was fired – it was the spark that ignited the strike, with 1,400 women and girls walking out – probably on July 2.

Four days later, the whole factory had ceased to function.

The women had gone to visit Besant to enlist her help and with her support and the backing of some MPs, the strike generated significant publicity. 

Besant – a prominent campaigner of a wide range of social and political issues – assisted in the negotiations and the workers were successful in getting unfair fines and deductions for materials abolished as well as a new grievance procedure with direct access to management. 

A separate room for meals was also provided to prevent contamination of their food with poisonous phosphorus.

In the aftermath of the strike, the workers founded the Union Of Women Matchmakers – the largest such organisation of women and girls in the country at the time.

Their efforts inspired a wave of organising among industrial workers, the mothers of change.

fighting for workers’ rights

Canning Town Library played a significant role in that process.

In 1889 it was the venue for the formation of the National Union of Gas Workers and General Labourers.

Will Thorne, Ben Tillett and William Byford founded the organisation in response to lay-offs at Beckton Gasworks, with the former elected as its general secretary.

The organisation rapidly launched a successful campaign for an eight-hour working day, with its membership then rising to more than 20,000.

It was the start of a labour movement that eventually became the GMB union, which today has more than half a million members.

Also in 1889, the London Dock Strike saw a walkout by some 100,000 workers.

They won their pay claim for the introduction of the Dockers’ Tanner – a guaranteed rate of sixpence an hour – precipitating extensive unionisation across the sector.

It was against this backdrop that Labour Party founder Keir Hardie was invited to successfully stand for election as MP for West Ham South.

He represented the seat from 1892-1895.

A mural on the side of the Lord Morpeth pub celebrating the work of Sylvia Pankhurst and the East London Federation Of Suffragettes - image by Jon Massey / Wharf Life
A mural on the side of the Lord Morpeth pub celebrating the work of Sylvia Pankhurst and the East London Federation Of Suffragettes – image by Jon Massey / Wharf Life

women and equality

East London continued to play a crucial role in the development of workers and women’s rights. 

From 1914 until 1924, 400 Old Ford Road in Bow was the headquarters of the East London Federation Of Suffragettes (ELFS), an organisation committed to getting women the vote and one based not far from where the match girls stuck their blow.

It was also the home of Sylvia Pankhurst and her fellow campaigner Norah Smyth as well as the location of their Women’s Hall – a radical social centre run largely by and for local working class women.

This included a larger space with a capacity of up to 350 and a smaller hall for about 50 – all furnished with tables and benches made with wood from supporter George Lansbury’s timber yard.

When the First World War led to unemployment and rising food prices, the hall opened a restaurant serving hot meals at cost-price with free milk for children.

Having broken with her mother – Emmeline Pankhurst’s Women’s Social And Political Union – Sylvia and the ELFS used east London as a base.

The group held marches through the neighbourhood, organised large public meetings, benefit concerts and parties as well as producing a weekly newspaper called The Women’s Dreadnought.

Other activities included opening a cooperative toy factory that paid a living wage to its female workers and even offered a crèche.

While the ELFS’s name changed over the years it remained active until 1924.

Today, the Suffragettes’ activities are remembered in a mural on the side of the neighbouring Lord Morpeth pub.

It’s stories like these that Cody Dock’s Heritage Pavilion will help showcase in greater depth when it opens next year.     

Additional research by Cody Dock’s Julia Briscoe

key details: Frost Fair at Cody Dock

Cody Dock offers a wide range of volunteering opportunities and runs regular events and activities aimed at engaging with the local community.

You can find out more at its Frost Fair event on Saturday, November 29, 2025, which is free to attend from noon-5pm.

Read more: Why a degree in hospitality and tourism can boost your career

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Isle Of Dogs: Why the Massey Shaw fireboat is seeking new volunteers

Historic vessel lying in West India South Dock looks to ensure its stories continue to be told

Massey Shaw is currently moored at West India South Dock
Massey Shaw is currently moored at West India South Dock

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This is not the story of the fireboat Massey Shaw. How could it be?

Just to stand on the deck of this remarkable craft at her berth in West India South Dock is to feel her planks and steel plates quietly pulse with the decades of history they’ve absorbed.

It would be possible to fill this space many times over without coming close to bottoming out the sheer depth of material associated with this remarkable boat.

It might be the part she played saving goods worth many millions of pounds just a year after coming into service by blasting down the walls of a warehouse with the power of her main jet to stop a fire in its tracks at Colonial Wharf in Wapping. 

It could be the more than 500 lives she saved as part of the flotilla of little ships launched to help rescue British servicemen from the beaches at Dunkirk in 1940 – ferrying soldiers from the land to larger craft and herself taking about 100 back across the channel, making three trips despite the danger of the sea and enemy fire.

Or it may be the part she played in the desperate firefighting effort during the Blitz.

Massey in full flow

But these stories – and many more – are best told by those who know, the volunteers who are working to keep her shipshape and who hope eventually to open her to the public as a museum ship.

Built in 1935 by J Samuel Whites at Cowes on the Isle Of Wight for £18,000 (more than £2million in today’s money) she served the London Fire Brigade from launch until 1971.

After a decade in the wilderness, in 1982, the Massey Shaw And Marine Vessels Preservation Society embarked on a project to restore her and to sail her once again to Dunkirk for the first time since the 1960s.

Today, after much passion, a sinking, restoration work, vandalism, repair and renovation, she lies by the entrance to West India Docks, sharing space with the 1920s steam tug Portwey and the Dockland Scout Project. 

From there, the Massey Shaw Education Trust, as the society has become, intends to use its 40th anniversary year to raise awareness of its work, the vessel herself and the opportunities available for those who might like to get involved with the ongoing  project.

Rescuing troops from Dunkirk

Trust CEO David Rogers – himself a former firefighter, albeit a land-based one – said: “We’re a completely voluntary organisation and we’d really like to engage with a wider audience including people who are in Docklands.

“Perhaps they’ve seen this black and red boat that looks a bit strange – we often get questions about what she is and what she does.

“So one of the things we want to do is to get more volunteers of all ages who can come along and support us in our plans for the boat.

“We’ve had her for 40 years, but we see ourselves as custodians and we now need people to take her forward for the next 40.

“This boat has a unique history and we want to help people understand it and to help shape it whether they’re involved in the fire service or not.

“We want people to come and be trained so they can run the engines, operate the boat and man her pumps so she can appear at events. 

“But we also have a big archive that we’ve built up over the years, so we need people with IT skills to help organise and digitise that.”

Massey Shaw Educational Trust CEO David Rogers
Massey Shaw Educational Trust CEO David Rogers – image Matt Grayson

Currently the team are working towards getting Massey Shaw ready to once more cross the channel in 2025.

“We’re part of Dunkirk Little Ships, which celebrates the journey made by those boats in 1940 to save troops from the beaches,” said David.

“The crews who went over during the war were all volunteer firemen and fortunately they all came back safely, but some of the soldiers they rescued had been badly injured.

“We’d especially like young people to take part in our next trip, to learn the skills that were taught back in the 1930s, which are needed to operate the boat so future generations can continue to enjoy and learn about her.

“Volunteering is a great deal of fun – over the 40 years I’ve been involved, I’ve met some fantastic people and I’ve always enjoyed it.

“It’s great when visitors come onto the boat, especially if they have stories to share about individuals who perhaps served on Massey Shaw or were associated with her. 

Massey's 'monitor' which shoots its main jet
Massey’s ‘monitor’ which shoots its main jet – image Matt Grayson

“Also, the opportunity to go out on the boat, to show people what she can do and what it was like in its early days gives you a real buzz. We’re here to prove she can still do the job she was built for.”

Descend into Massey Shaw’s engine and pump room and you can see exactly what he’s talking about.

The beating heart of the vessel is her two main engines that require constant maintenance to both propel the boat and to power its firefighting equipment, capable of pumping enormous amounts of water to where it’s needed.

David says the main brass cannon on deck – called ‘the monitor’ – is capable of pumping 13,000 litres of water every single minute with enough force to propel the whole boat along when in full flow. 

“Last year we had an open day and the pump was running and the harbour master ran up the dock and said it was just fantastic – that he’d never seen anything like it,” said David.

“That’s the reaction we want – people clap and cheer because it’s such a great thing to see. We’re hoping to hold another open day to raise greater awareness of what we’re doing on August 14 and we’re very keen to attract new visitors.

“Beyond that we’re working to get Massey Shaw ready for Dunkirk in 2025 and we have an Arts Council application in to become an independent museum.

“Then we want to find somewhere we can have a link to the shore so we can display our archive.

“We’re also looking to partner with other local organisations and companies so we can expand and move forward from here.”

The Massey Shaw Education Trust is actively seeking new volunteers, partnerships and funding for its activities.

One of Massey's two main engines
One of Massey’s two main engines – image Matt Grayson

Read more: How Terrible Thames takes Horrible Histories onto the river

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- Jon Massey is co-founder and editorial director of Wharf Life and writes about a wide range of subjects in Canary Wharf, Docklands and east London - contact via jon.massey@wharf-life.com
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