The Social Art Of Braided Hair is set to arrive at Art In The Docks

Exhibition forms part of Newham Black History Month with a focus on African and Caribbean culture

Image shows a woman with braided hair in a denim jacket
The Social Art Of Braided Hair will be on show from October 18-20 and 26-27

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BY LAURA ENFIELD

The practice of combining strands of hair has been around for thousands of years. But it is about much more than creating a neat appearance.

Exhibition The Social Art of Braided Hair will showcase it as an art form and the people who design it as artists. 

The show has been produced by Royal Docks collective Art In The Docks with Stratford-based social enterprise Nurture Academy.

It will be open to the public on October 18-20 and 26-27 as part of Newham Black History Month.

Matilda Russell from Art In The Docks tells us more about the people and ideas behind it.

what can visitors expect?

The Social Art of Braided Hair is a photo essay positioning the cultural and social importance of braided hair.

All of the work being shown in the exhibition is contemporary to Newham Black History Month.

Rather than images of professional models with carefully manicured hair shot in soft focus, this show centres entirely on local east Londoners, shown as they really are.

the meaning behind it?

As well as portraying braided hair as an art form and the people who wear it as living artworks, the exhibition will show the powerful social impact of braided hair.

The time spent between a mother and child braiding hair is a deeply bonding moment.

The legacy hair design remains as a visual reminder of a time spent together. 

what is Art In The Docks?

We are an artist-led social enterprise in east London, committed to making art and culture accessible to people who might otherwise feel excluded. 

Regular events, activities and workshops are delivered to the local communities, as well as exhibitions, dance and theatre performances. These are free and open to everyone. 

what is Nurture Academy?

It’s also a social enterprise based in east London working with individuals of all ages to promote and understand the significance of braided hair. 

The organisation nurtures, mentors and teaches individuals lifelong skills while unlocking confidence. 

As well as working with families and young children, Nurture Academy shines a pathway into new career directions for ex-offenders and the long term unemployed.

Image shows the back of a woman's head with braided hair in place
Art In The Docks has worked with Nurture Academy to create the exhibition

how have you worked together?

Nurture Academy promotes the understanding of braided hair, its cultural significance and the techniques used.

While braiding skills are often handed down from one generation to another and practised between siblings and friends, Nurture Academy teaches people how to optimise these techniques in workshop environments.

The exhibition will include images of these workshops, and the teaching methods used. Several of these workshops will accompany the exhibition on Saturday, October 19, 2024, and will be totally free to access.

what inspired the exhibition?

This project came about as the result of shared values between both Art In The Docks and Nurture Academy.

Both are committed to showing how the capacity for creativity fundamentally defines who we are as a civilisation.

The title of the exhibition reflects these values and highlights the importance of societal reference points.

why is it important?

Much has been said about braided hair and cultural appropriation. In the same way that tattoos are ‘not just for sailors’, exclusive title to the of art braided hair cannot today be claimed by any one section of society.

However, there is no doubt that it is deeply rooted in black African and black Caribbean culture and we have chosen this as the central theme to this exhibition.

This visual human story will be told in 22 frames, each the same size and dimension. It will centre on the people we see around us every day and invite us to stop and look, maybe to learn.

key details: The Social Art Of Braided Hair

The event runs October 18-20 and 26-27 at Art In The Docks in Royal Albert Dock, a short walk from Gallions Reach DLR station. 

Find full details of the exhibition here

Image shows traders at a Black Pound Market
Black Pound Markets are set to take place on October 12 and 19

more to do during Black History Month

Newham Black History Month is here offering free talks, workshops, markets, and musical performances.

The programme runs from October 4 to November 4, 2024, with the theme Reclaiming Narratives, dedicated to addressing historical inaccuracies and seizing control of stories, allegories, and histories.

It has been organised by Newham Council as part of its 15-year Building Newham’s Creative Future Cultural Strategy, launched in March 2022.

Mayor Of Newham, Rokhsana Fiaz said: “Black History Month provides a crucial opportunity for us to recognise and celebrate the immense contributions of black African and Caribbean communities to our borough and beyond. 

“This celebration is not only a reflection on the past, but also a source of empowerment for our present and future.”

Councillor Rohit Dasgupta, deputy cabinet member for equalities, social justice and culture said: “Through this celebration, we aim to challenge ignorance, prejudice, and racial hatred, and to build a more inclusive and harmonious society.”

Black Pound Markets

A celebration of Newham’s black businesses and entrepreneurs featuring music and entertainment for the whole family.

Saturday, October 12, 9am to 3pm at Woodgrange Market

Saturday, October 19, from noon to 4pm at Rathbone Market

My Story Is Of Healing

Two workshops produced by East London-based mixed-media artist Marilyn J Fontaine.

The first is Rewriting the Health Narrative Of Black Women on Tuesday October, 15. It will explore the link between emotional healing, black women’s activism and care provided for black women, referencing Dr Angela Davis and Dr Melba Wilson. 

Participants will create an “emotional genogram” using coloured pens, fabric and self-portraits followed by reflections and discussions.

The second is Women’s Rest is Resilience on Thursday, October 17. It will be an exploration of language around black women (sacrifice, resilience, endurance) and community organisations in the 1980s and 1990s in Newham who delivered art workshops for the black community to support mental wellbeing.

Creative activities will be used to craft a new narrative to reflect the relationship between self-care, community empowerment and wellbeing. Participants are required to bring a picture of themselves.

October 15 and 17, 6-8.30pm, Applecart Arts, The Passmore Edwards Library, 207 Plashet Grove, E6 1BX

Improving Black Health

An event focused on enhancing the health and well-being of Londoners within the black community. 

It will include discussions on various health topics affecting the Black population. 

The aim is to hear and understand the health experiences of individuals from black communities in order to initiate a discussion on addressing long-standing health and wellbeing inequities, explore culturally appropriate public health strategies for combating chronic conditions such as obesity, heart disease and diabetes and discuss and develop strategies to improve health outcomes for patients from the black community at a local level.

Friday, October 18, 6-7.30pm, City Hall, Kamal Chunchie Way, E16 1ZE

Art Workshop Inspired By Professor Sonia Boyce

Part of a series of events to reclaim narratives by exploring the political innovations, artistic achievements and cuisine of black residents and how they have contributed to life in Newham and further afield. 

This event will focus on the trail-blazing career of Dame Sonia Boyce. The British Afro-Caribbean artist and educator is a Professor of Black Art and Design at University of the Arts London. She explores art as a social practice and has been closely collaborating with other artists since 1990.

In 2016, she became the first black female to be elected to the Royal Academy Of Arts in London.

Wednesday, October 23 (time TBC), Custom House Bookshop, 3 Freemasons Road, E16 3AR

Finale: From Beats to Legacy – 30 Years of Black British Influence

A showcase of grime music, film, poetry and a special guest Q&A. More details TBC.

Saturday, October 26, 6-9pm, Stratford Old Town Hall

Find full details of Newham Black History Month here

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Royal Albert Wharf shared ownership, a first-time buyer case study

How history teacher Farhana Mallick put down roots in east London at NHG Homes’ development

Image shows first-time buyer Farhana Mallick, pictured in a white kitchen at her home. She is wearing a grey top and black trousers and has long black hair
Fahana Mallick, pictured in her apartment at NHG Homes’ Royal Albert Wharf

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“I would still be renting or living with my parents if it wasn’t for shared ownership – it gives you a lifeline, especially in your 20s or 30s,” said Farhana Mallick.

The history teacher turned to affordable housing provider NHG Homes when she began looking to put down roots in her home city.

Having been raised in east London, she’d spent her early 20s living in this part of the city and so initially looked at properties in Tower Hamlets and Ilford.

However, it was Royal Docks that ultimately turned her head, opting to purchase a quarter of a three-bedroom apartment in 2021.

“I decided I was done losing my money on rent,” said Farhana, who now teaches at a school in Barking And Dagenham. 

“I wanted to invest in a property, and have a home I could make my own.

“Shared ownership really appealed to me because it meant I required a much smaller deposit than if I was buying privately.”

Image shows a show home living area including a balcony with a view of the Thames
More shared ownership homes are set to become available at Royal Albert Wharf

a deposit, a mortgage and rent

Farhana, then aged 25, used a £13,250 deposit to buy her share of a property at NHG Homes’s Royal Albert Wharf scheme, taking out a mortgage to cover the remainder of the £132,500 cost.

The apartment, which was then valued at £530,000, costs her £1,391 per month which breaks down as £606 on the loan, £497 in rent and £288 in service charge.

“As a first-time buyer, NHG Homes really helped me to understand the process, and what the steps were,” said Farhana.

“I think many people aren’t aware of what shared ownership is or its benefits, but NHG Homes was so transparent and happy to answer all of my questions – the whole purchase was smooth and enjoyable, with wraparound care from the team.

“As a young person, living in this city, this home gives me great flexibility to either increase my share or sell it based on the market – I could definitely see myself raising a family here. 

“With shared ownership making my home more affordable, I’ve now got a spare bedroom and a great community on my doorstep.

“If I was to move homes, I think my next purchase would also be with shared ownership – I can’t recommend it enough.” 

Image shows Royal Albert Wharf at sunrise with the Royal Albert Docks impounding station in view. The buildings are brick-clad and around six storeys high
The development is located at the end of Royal Albert Dock and is on the banks of the Thames

selecting Royal Albert Wharf

NHG Homes and other affordable housing providers offer multiple locations where buyers can purchase shared ownership homes, so what made Royal Albert Wharf stand out? 

“I’ve stuck to my roots as I grew up in east London and the Royal Albert Wharf community has got a really modern and stylish twist to it,” said Farhana, who has now lived in the area for more than two years.

“I do travel into central London, but often I feel like I don’t really need to, because I’ve got so many things on my doorstep.

“If I am going into town, then I’ll take the DLR as it has so many connections.

“I shop locally a lot, including at Gallions Reach Shopping Park and also Beckton Triangle Retail Park, both of which are very close.”

The development is well connected, with Gallions Reach DLR station less than 10 minutes’ walk offering connections across east London including to the Elizabeth Line at Custom House.

From there, Canary Wharf is three minutes’ away, while Liverpool Street is nine minutes.

Royal Docks itself, which is currently undergoing billions of pounds of regeneration, offers multiple amenities including watersports, events at Excel, restaurants, bars and a new strip of attractions at Immerse LDN – find out more here about The Friends Experience: The One In London, which recently opened there.

More locally, Royal Albert Wharf is home to exhibition space Art In The Docks, Cyrus Todiwala’s Cafe Spice Namaste and The Well Bean Co.

Image shows Royal Albert Dock at night with lights reflected in the waters of the dock
Royal Albert Dock is an established community

fitting into a community

Farhana said: “Residents have created a great community here and that’s really rare to find, especially as a young person.

“We have our own group, which is great as you can get to know other people living here.  

“When I have friends or family visit, there is so much to do on the doorstep – from brunch to Yoga classes and a regular food market on Fridays as well as events happening in Royal Docks.

“There’s a children’s playground being built at the moment as well, and there’s a gym planned – I feel like it’s constantly evolving.

“I’m trying to get into my fitness these days and living here has helped that because it makes me want to get outside.  

“It’s so rare to see open water like this in the city. It’s a lovely area to be in.”

As a location to buy, Royal Docks makes a solid case. With much regeneration taking place locally and further transport links proposed, demand for homes is only likely to grow.

Image shows Farhana sitting in a wood-lined cafe enjoying a cup of coffee from The Well Bean Co
Farhana enjoys a coffee at The Well Bean Co, her local cafe

key details: Royal Albert Wharf

NHG Homes is set to launch a fresh collection of shared ownership properties at Royal Albert Wharf in September.

A new show home is set to launch at the scheme on August 31, 2024.

Apartments are also available for private sale at the east London development with prices for one, two and three-bedroom homes starting at £375,000, £494,995 and £660,000 respectively.

Call 020 3733 3571 to register your interest or find out more here

Read more: How Vertus continues to evolve its brand

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- Jon Massey is co-founder and editorial director of Wharf Life and writes about a wide range of subjects in Canary Wharf, Docklands and east London - contact via jon.massey@wharf-life.com
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Royal Docks: How Certain Blacks’ Ensemble Festival is packed with free entertainment

Artistic director Clive Lyttle on how acts have been commissioned to get audience’s hearts’ beating

Certain Blacks artistic director Clive Lyttle

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Clive Lyttle is smiling and there’s a glint in his eye.

The artistic director of Certain Blacks is relishing the prospect of putting on four days of completely free entertainment in Royal Docks when the organisation’s Ensemble Festival returns. 

Six whistle-whetting performances are set to take place on July 19 and 20, 2023, followed by a further 10 on July 22 and 23, 2023 – all adding up to a brightly coloured spectacle of newly commissioned circus, dance, art and voguing.

The festival’s 2023 programme is its most extensive to date in Certain Blacks’ ongoing mission to bring live performance from the margins to the mainstream.

“I’d spent 17 years working for Arts Council England and I developed Certain Blacks because of the need to support a wide range of diverse artists,” said Clive.

“Our first indoor festival took place in 2015 at Stratford Circus and we continue to showcase work as an arts development organisation.

“At the Arts Council, I was responsible for Newham, so I have deep contacts in the borough – my first job was as a multi-cultural arts officer for the council.”

Having worked extensively in the area, Clive made the move to Royal Docks six years ago and now lives overlooking Excel from the Flying Angel – a former seaman’s hospital for more than a century, converted into residential homes.

Between there and Certain Blacks’ base at The Factory Project in Silvertown, he oversees two annual festivals – Ensemble in E16  and Heroes, last held at Shoreditch’s Rich Mix in February.

While the latter is a platform for artists to explore performances strictly for an adult audience indoors, the former is strictly family friendly and very much out in the open air.

 “Certain Blacks is part of a network called Without Walls,” said Clive, who originally wanted to be a rock star before going on to study jazz guitar in Northumbria and embarking on a career in the arts. 

Out Of The Deep Blue’s puppet performance will be part of the festival

“It’s a national consortium of 36 festivals that work together to commission and develop innovative new work each year that can then tour the country.

“We’ve got seven new commissions including Gorilla Circus – a large scale show with high wire, trapeze and hair hanging that will be the finale of this year’s Ensemble Festival

“We’re lucky to have Arts Council funding, which gives us a little bit of money to get these shows made and then a bit of time to put a programme together.

“I travel to various festivals in the UK and Europe where we meet people – we’re always on the look out for artists.

“The festival is also funded by the Royal Docks Team for some smaller commissions that range from a local music collective to a Chinese dance group, an African psychedelic performance and something we’re putting together called Give And Take, which is about the politics and rights and wrongs of giving.”

These performances will mostly take place in front of Good Hotel off Western Gateway, a few minutes’ walk from Royal Victoria Dock DLR station.

The finale, however, is set to take place beside Building 1000 near Royal Albert Dock DLR on the Saturday and Sunday.

“It’s a spectacular show,” said Clive. “I saw it at the Norfolk And Norwich Festival – one of the partners in Without Walls – in May and it was fantastic.

“Of the consortium, we’re one of the few partners putting that show on.

“It gets your heart really beating – the hair hanging may make a few people wince and the high wire act is one of the best in Europe.

“He doesn’t wear a harness and left me with my heart in my mouth when I saw the show last month.

“As for the rest of the performances, a lot of the programme is an open call to artists – anyone who wants to do outdoor work can apply and that can lead to performances at, say, seven or eight festivals nationwide.

“With Certain Blacks, a lot of it is putting on work and supporting artists that I’d love to see – but also pieces that are unexpected and diverse.

Mughal Miniatures is based on tiny pictures seen in Indian temples

“It has to be fun too. We do a lot of live art, a lot of work which might challenge the audience – but Ensemble is very much PG-rated, even if the shows might make people think.

“We have the Sonia Sabri Company presenting Mughal Miniatures – The Awakening, a piece based on tiny pictures you can see in Indian temples brought to life.

“Then there’s Fussy Foodies: Battle Of The Pans where people can learn a few tricks about being a celebrity chef, play a few games and have a good singalong. 

“Some of the themes we’ll be addressing through the Royal Docks Team commissions are ecology, being eco-friendly and how we live.

“We’ve got an event anyone can take part in called the Bench Invasion.

“People from Belgium are coming over with 10 benches and we’ll have local volunteers helping to put the benches down, and people can sit and talk to them – then at the end there’s a little party and an exchange of stories.

“It’s about slowing life down and listening.

“We’ve also got a big eco-show with the Austin Dance Theatre called Out Of The Deep Blue – it’s a giant puppet that goes around telling stories about conservation.”

One of the few pieces to take place elsewhere will be dotComedy’s News Desk – a live rolling broadcast about events happening on the streets of Royal Docks presented in front of City Hall, delivered by comedian Richard Sharp.

There isn’t even space here to properly mention the interactive pub serving sounds or the rebellious hip hop dance of S.C.R.U.M.

All in all, it adds up to an extensive, diverse and surprising range of work as Royal Docks beds in as a serious cultural destination in London.

Clive said: “The area is getting to be very much part of the wider events ecology of London and we want to take artists from here out into the wider world.

“One of the points about our small commissions is to start artists on that journey, so they could be commissioned by people like Without Walls.”

Find full listings for Ensemble Festival here

THREE HIGHLIGHTS AT ENSEMBLE FESTIVAL

Gorilla Circus is set will be performed over two nights in Royal Docks

GORILLA CIRCUS

July 22-23, 8,30pm

The absolutely unmissable finale to Ensemble Festival – expect hair hanging, high wire and much more from this aerial spectacle outside Building 1000 at Royal Albert Dock.

Catch Ghetto Fabulous at Western Gateway as part of the festival

GHETTO FABULOUS

July 22-23, noon-7pm

Four LGBTQIA+ dancers from Manchester and Liverpool strut their stuff in this family catwalk extravaganza. Audience decides the winner. Find this show at Western Gateway.

Expect foodie facts and storytelling from Fussy Foodies

FUSSY FOODIES

July 22-23, noon-7pm

Just More Productions presents the Battle Of The Pans – a game show themed around Caribbean cooking.

Expect foodie facts, spices and storytelling.  Find this show at Western Gateway.

Read more: How artist Mark Taylor is capturing Canary Wharf and Docklands

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- Jon Massey is co-founder and editorial director of Wharf Life and writes about a wide range of subjects in Canary Wharf, Docklands and east London - contact via jon.massey@wharf-life.com
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Royal Docks: How UEL student Ashlea Cromby won a £5,000 grant for her startup

How Mansimble Tea And Estate impressed at the university’s Female Founders Demo Day

Ashlea Cromby, co-founder of Mansimble Tea And Estate and UEL PhD student

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Business is about remaining agile.

Mansimble Tea And Estate – an importer of rare Kangra tea from India – was founded by University Of East London alumni Ashlea Cromby and Vanessa Browne in response to a problem. 

“I never thought I’d be in the tea business – my whole family is from Hainault,” said Ashlea.

“I grew up wanting to be a hairdresser – a stylist at London Fashion Week, because I always had pretty high goals.

“But I went to Epping Forest College (now New City College) and studied piano, then came to UEL to read music as an undergrad for three years because it was the university closest to my house.

“That’s where I met Vanessa – we lived a bit of a wild life for a few years and then I started working in schools, teaching music.

“I’d been to India when I was 18 and volunteered in some local schools – then I went back in 2018 after my masters at UEL in special educational needs. 

“On my last night during that second trip, I was speaking to the owner of the Mansimble Tea Estate and he told me he wanted to build a school – I said I’d love to work with him on that.

“We did extensive fundraising at UEL with cake sales, music events, fairs and auctions – and we built the school.”

But then a problem arose. The arrival of the global pandemic saw a drop in donations to keep the school running.

Ashlea and Vanessa needed a plan to fund the school sustainably, protecting it from the ups and downs of charitable funding.

“It hit me like a lightning bolt that the estate’s Kangra tea could be used to fund the school,” she said.

“I Whatsapped the owner and asked if he exported the tea to the UK and he said no, so I messaged to say: ‘Now you do’.”

Now studying for a PhD at UEL, looking at autistic identity and internet memes, Ashlea had no experience in the sector, but she and her business partner dug in and launched Mansimble Tea And Estate in 2021. 

Mansimble’s Kangra tea comes in hand-tied cotton bags

“In the early days there were issues with borders – much of the world was still in lockdown – but we got the tea and launched it as an ethical brand targeting Yoga studios and hippy communities,” said Ashlea.

“The estate is owned by Indians who pay the pickers a fair wage and provide free education for their children through the school.

“However, we did some market research, looking at the big afternoon teas at the Dorchester and the Ritz and we realised we could target them.

“These hotels always want rare teas that come with a story, so we looked at branching out – offering heritage and rarity, but also an ethical brand that is sustainable.

“Kangra tea accounts for less than 1% of production in India and our teas come in hand-tied cotton bags.”

Combined with a blossoming gin collaboration that’s set to be stocked by Sainsbury’s, this all makes Mansimble a compelling story of a business starting to gain real traction.

That’s perhaps the key reason why Ashlea’s presentation to UEL’s Female Founders Demo Day – a competition that recently saw six women pitch their business venture ideas to win a £5,000 grant – won out.

Held at UEL’s campus on Royal Albert Dock, the contest saw a total of £10,000 in grants awarded to female entrepreneurs with support from Ankh Impact Ventures whose founder, Pierre Rolin, chaired the judges. 

“The money will make a huge difference to Mansimble,” said Ashlea.

“It will allow us to pay up front for tea chests, that will help us to scale the business and then we can start really expanding.

“That will help the core part of the business, which is to raise funds for the school in India.

“With regard to the tea itself,  we want to be the leading Kangra specialist in the world – the Coca-Cola of that business.

“We want to see it featured on as many afternoon tea menus as possible and to truly re-establish it.

“Going back to Victorian times, it was the most prized tea in Britain.

“It won gold and silver awards in Amsterdam in the 1840s and was the very best of the Victorian high society teas.

The tea is grown on an Indian-owned estate, which pays its workers fair wages and provides education for their children

“Then there was an earthquake that hit the region where it is grown and, because of that, the British pulled out.

“They already had Assam and Darjeeling and the rest of India so they decided they didn’t want to waste their money on this tiny place and its crop of tea.

“Today the estate is owned by Indians and it produces this incredible product.

“It is not bitter at all – it’s the smoothest, most amazing tea, served with no milk or sugar.

“If you liken it to the spirit world, then you’re getting a beautiful, full-bodied whisky.

“The tea itself – which is called a liquor when it’s brewed – is smooth, full of flavour and amber in colour.

“What we want to do is return Kangra tea to where it used to be in the UK market – right at the top.

“As a brand we are doing something different to what’s out there.

“There are lots of ethical tea brands and there are many speciality, high-end tea brands. Then there are everyday brands like PG Tips and Typhoo.  

“With Mansimble, we are both an ethical brand and one that is targeting the top end of the market.

“We are approaching tea in a different way, because the Indians are in control of the estate in contrast to its colonial past.”

  • Two other students were also given grants at Demo Day. BSc computing for business student Nicole Ihemadu was recognised with £2,500 for her Uzuri Tribe venture aimed at using AI to create a bespoke selection of products based on customer preference and aimed at black women.

Kiri Scamp, who is studying business management at UEL, also received £2,500 for Millér, a brand developing muti-purpose, recyclable and sustainable makeup kits and vegan and ethical products to go in them.

Also presenting on the day were Angela Rixon with coaching venture My Wisdom Career, Jasmine Shroder’s trauma-based therapy business and Ashantae Samuel-Maragh of ASSM Waves, making workout gear from recycled fishing nets.

Read more: Discover volunteering opportunities with Canary Wharf Group and The Felix Project through its Green Scheme

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- Jon Massey is co-founder and editorial director of Wharf Life and writes about a wide range of subjects in Canary Wharf, Docklands and east London - contact via jon.massey@wharf-life.com
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