Music Lessons

Barbarella review: Big Mamma’s Canary Wharf spot is a mixed bag

The recently opened Italian restaurant overlooking Eden Dock goes big on interior design and pottery pooches but underperforms with its mains

Barbarella's first floor dining room, complete with mirrored ceiling - image by Jon Massey / Wharf Life
Barbarella’s first floor dining room, complete with mirrored ceiling – image by Jon Massey / Wharf Life

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At a glance, Barbarella is a lot of fun.

Big Mamma Group, the company behind the chain that recently opened its latest branch in Canary Wharf, knows the power of design.

Its venues across Europe all have different names and aesthetics and, while there’s variance in the menus, there’s also overlap.   

It’s smart. Rather than rely on a brand like The Ivy, Strada or Prezzo – good examples, perhaps, of where chains have created the perception of quality watered down as they’ve rolled out – the mission here is to bedazzle with baubles.

Big Mamma, presumably, sits in her parlour; a shadowy figure below stairs counting the pennies. 

Walk into the Canary Wharf restaurant, festooned with plants and pots outside and you’ll be greeted by a visual onslaught.

There are glossy pottery dogs, a swirly carpet that may have been deliberately mis-fitted to confuse the eye, warmly glowing chandeliers and upstairs, where we’re shown to a table, a mirrored ceiling and vintage shots of models flashing their buttocks for Italian fashion brand Fiorucci. 

There’s a lot of PVC on show, complete with outfits framed to accentuate the high-legged thong-backs of the garments.

Oddly, the mildly risqué is offset by an interior filled with soft furnishings that wouldn’t look out of place in a fine dining room.

There’s linen on some tables and thick heavy curtains to deaden the acoustic, softening every sound. 

Further offsetting comes with the decision to have chefs in the open kitchen wear red baseball caps – a jarring dash of MAGA against the more refined performance from the front of house staff.

Crocchette Di Vitello Tonnato, little deep-fried balls of pulled veal with capers (£15) - image by Jon Massey / Wharf Life
Crocchette Di Vitello Tonnato, little deep-fried balls of pulled veal with capers (£15) – image by Jon Massey / Wharf Life

the start of the show

We haven’t booked and the gatekeeper on the door puts in a decent dramatic performance of straining to fit us in – “but just so you know, we need the table back in 90 minutes”.

Nothing says relaxed Italian dining like a ticking clock.

We’re led upstairs to the luxe hall of mirrors, which is completely empty.

It’s no real surprise. It’s 5pm and the place does fill up as time ticks on.

Initially, things start well. The service is pleasant and relaxed, although the demi-armchairs we sit in are challenging to shuffle closer or further away from the table without awkwardly grabbing them from below and bracing with all one’s might.

Our starters arrive – Crocchette Di Vitello Tonnato, little deep-fried balls of pulled veal with capers (£15) and Smoky Stracciatella, the creamy heart of burrata served in a bowl with a leaf of basil and herby oil (£9). 

Smoky Stracciatella (£9) - image by Wharf Life / Jon Massey
Smoky Stracciatella (£9) – image by Wharf Life / Jon Massey

Both are surprisingly generous but decent on the tongue.

The five bites of veal feel substantial and the fact one has fallen over and lost its caper, does nothing to lessen the rich, meaty flavour.

The cheese is equally decadent, a lake of gooey loveliness with a dominant hit of smoke in the mouth. A good start. 

Raviolone Bicolore (£21) at Barbarella - image by Wharf Life / Jon Massey
Raviolone Bicolore (£21) at Barbarella – image by Wharf Life / Jon Massey

a pizza as dry as a desert

However, things go downhill with the mains. Initially, my Raviolone Bicolore – green and yellow pasta filled with ricotta and spinach in a provola sauce and topped with sage and hazelnuts (£21) – is solid enough.

There’s a creaminess to it with a hint of lemon and plenty of crunch from the fried herbs and nuts.

But as things roll on, the dish sags – the fillings, a tad watery, become less interesting.

This challenge is nothing, however, compared to the task my companion is faced with.

Her Carpaccio Diem “pizza” (£22) comes as a toasted, crispy base topped with a load of beef carpaccio, fresh black truffle, rocket and shavings of Parmigiano Reggiano. 

Despite a few dollops of truffle aioli, the slice she shared with me was arid – essentially an undressed salad on a dry flatbread – the only moisture on offer coming from the thinly sliced meat.

My companion, whose family hail from Naples, was frankly appalled.

Despite the obvious quality of the ingredients Thursday’s child on Barbarella’s Weekly Pizza menu was indeed full of woe, even if the box we were given to take it home in did have Pavarotti on it with a claim to be specialists in twerking. 

Not the kind to waste decent carpaccio, we scraped off the topping and turned it into a salad the following day, complete with dressing.

The Carpaccio Diem “pizza” (£22) - image by Wharf Life / Jon Massey
The Carpaccio Diem “pizza” (£22) – image by Wharf Life / Jon Massey

Barbarella, all-in-all

Which brings me to the final verdict.

Barbarella is unquestionably fun and for £62.88 per head including wine and tip, it sits its guests in the kind of luxury they might expect when paying twice that.

It feels special and was definitely drawing the date night crowd when we visited.

It has good views over the verdant Eden Dock and there’s enough silliness to charm, even if it does feel a little forced.

But buyer beware. While there’s decent cooking on offer here pick your dishes carefully. 

The one thing an Italian chain can’t get away with is poor food and there’s room for improvement if that pizza is any indication of overall quality. 

★★★✩✩

key details: Barbarella

Barbarella is located on Mackenzie Walk overlooking Eden Dock in Canary Wharf on the lower ground floor of the YY London building (easily identifiable by the Revolut sign at the top of it).

The restaurant is open daily from noon-10pm.

Find out more about the restaurant here

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Barbarella sports Italian glam as Big Mamma opens on the Wharf

We catch up with BM’s Enrico Pireddu to find out all about the new venue on the ground floor of YY London

Barbarella is set to open its doors on June 20, 2025, in Canary Wharf - image by Jon Massey
Barbarella is set to open its doors on June 20, 2025, in Canary Wharf – image by Jon Massey

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In 1968 sci-fi flick Barbarella, Jane Fonda’s eponymous character is at one point entombed in the Exsexsive Machine – a contraption intended to kill her with orgasmic waves of pleasure when some kind of diabolical tune is played by its creator, Durand Durand on his futuristic musical keyboard.

Fortunately, Barbarella proves too much for the dubious device, causing it to burst into flame to the profound disappointment of its creator. 

When first broadcast on the BBC, a decade after its creation, the film was potent enough to immediately prompt a nascent pop trio in Birmingham to name themselves Duran Duran in honour of the antagonist and his piano-wielding ways.

While they’ve so far failed to kill anyone with the pleasure of their output (at least to our knowledge), it’s a demonstration of the movie’s power to inspire. 

Even 57 years after it first hit the big screen, it remains a cultural icon with some clout.

How do we know? Well, Canary Wharf is about to get its very own Barbarella. 

opening Barbarella at YY London

Located on the lower two floors of the YY London building in Reuters Plaza, the venue is set to open its doors on June 20, 2025, and already there’s a playfulness about proceedings.

Part of Big Mamma Group – which operates the likes of Ave Mario, Jacuzzi, Gloria Shoreditch and Carlotta in the capital – there’s a sense the east London venue will be every bit as larger-than-life as the camp classic that inspired its identity. 

A conversation with Enrico Pireddu, managing director of Big Mamma’s operations across Europe, does little to suppress that notion. 

Born in Sardinia, he studied electrical engineering before falling into hospitality and “going on an adventure in France”. Joining the company in its early days, he grew with them, taking charge of East Mamma in Paris in 2015.

“Then, in 2018, I went to London to open our first restaurant there, moving with my Argentinian wife who I’d met in Paris and my French cat,” said Enrico, who has since added “a beautiful English daughter to the mix”. 

“Then I started as operations manager for the UK, London has been the biggest adventure of my life.

“There are so many brilliant professionals and you can learn a lot.

“When I became managing director in the UK, I tried to bring everything I learnt to it.

“The key is to know your market and knowing what to do to make a difference.

“It has not always been easy and I’ve made a lot of mistakes, but I’ve learnt a lot about business, leadership and I’m still learning every day.”

Big Mamma Group's Enrico Pireddu - image by Joann Pai / Big Mamma Group
Big Mamma Group’s Enrico Pireddu – image by Joann Pai / Big Mamma Group

growth and expansion

Big Mamma feels very much on an upward trajectory.

Canary Wharf will be its 30th restaurant, having already seen venues open beyond the capital in Birmingham and Manchester.

But rather than stick to replication, the group’s approach relies instead on tailored offerings.

“The restaurants are all different and we’re very site driven, so we have to feel the vibe,” said Enrico.

“Barbarella is on the waterfront – it has two floors and there are many things that make you feel it’s a great opportunity.

“The idea for the restaurant is to reflect the golden age of Italian cinema and its eccentricities.

“It’s a world we want people to step into.

“Canary Wharf is a fascinating area – it changes very fast, it has a lot of life and culture.

“We’ve been watching its transformation and a lot of our chefs in London have lived in the area.

“Many have asked to come and work in Barbarella.”

Members of the Barbarella team post at Bokan on the Isle Of Dogs. We're not sure, but it's unlikely Canary Wharf's towers will be decorated like this for the opening - image by Haydon Perrior / Big Mamma Group
Members of the Barbarella team post at Bokan on the Isle Of Dogs. We’re not sure, but it’s unlikely Canary Wharf’s towers will be decorated like this for the opening – image by Haydon Perrior / Big Mamma Group

stories of the interior

At this stage, we can neither confirm nor deny the presence of an Exsexsive Machine on the premises.

It’s also unclear whether the playlist will include all of Duran Duran’s back catalogue, or just a few of the hits.

What we do know is that there will be chocolate brown silk walls, a mirrored bar, a three-metre wide amber chandelier, silver curtains, a mirrored reception desk, a chromed lounge and a gold-framed open kitchen.

The latter will be the domain of Roman chef Marco Rastelli, hailing from the same city where producer Dino De Laurentiis built his original studios, home to Barbarella and countless other vivacious shoots. 

“The food is a very important story,” said Enrico.

“Everything is homemade and we’re very proud of it. We might have an idea what we want to do, but we also change depending on the chef. We take inspiration from everywhere.”

Diners can expect a series of “twisted classics” including the likes of Italian tomato tatin with Parmigiano cream and a pizza selection that changes daily.

Secondi include buttered Cornish lemon sole filleted tableside to share and a selection of steaks from butcher Phillip Warren, ranging from a tender fillet to a 1.2kg T-bone.

beyond spaghetti

“Personally, the first thing I’ll be ordering is the metre-long spaghettone,” said Enrico, praising the extra-thick version of spaghetti that’s perhaps set to be the restaurant’s signature dish. 

“We also have a big wine list, all Italian, with a lot of big-name labels.

“To round things off, I’d probably have the tiramisu with a pistachio espresso martini.”

Even though much of the branding is slanted towards the sexy, glam 1970s camp of the kind of film that inspired its name, Barbarella also aims to be a welcoming environment for all.

“You can definitely bring your whole family here,” said Enrico.

“We will provide everything you need when you’re out with the family at the weekend.

“For example, Sunday lunch is inspired by when your grandmother invites you and everyone else over – that long table with the whole family sitting together.

“We have a lot of families on Sunday in our restaurants and we love them, whether that’s a booking for three people, four, seven, eight or even 50.”

While much of Barbarella remains under wraps for now, the potted jungle that has arrived outside is a statement of intent –a wild counterpoint to the comparatively neat Eden Dock. This place could well be a riot. 

key details: Barbarella

Barbarella is set to open at YY London in Canary Wharf’s Reuters Plaza on June 20, 2025.

Those seeking more details should subscribe to Big Mamma’s newsletter for

further updates. You can also find details of the group’s other restaurants in London on its website.

Read more: How Gemini Trains wants to run services to Paris and Brussels from Stratford International

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