Canary Wharf Group (CWG) is currently seeking views on its plans to partner with Sea Lanes to deliver a 50m natural water pool floating in Eden Dock.
Set to open in June 2026 (subject to planning approval), the proposal is for an open water swimming facility open year round and staffed by lifeguards with a constant depth of 1.3m.
Located around the corner from the main stretch of Eden Dock, the east London plans also include an extensive on-land element on vacant land to the north of Newfoundland tower.
This would include changing room and sauna facilities, a clubhouse and flexible events space, a food and beverage offering, a viewing area to watch swimmers in the pool and a base for the hire of paddle boards and kayaks.
Under the current proposal Sea Lanes would be open from 6am-11pm during peak summer dates with reduced hours at other times of the year.
Ross Gilbert, director at Sea Lanes said: “We are excited to be partnering with CWG on proposals for a new National Open Water Swimming Centre in the heart of Canary Wharf, building on the fantastic work already accomplished in the neighbourhood to open up Eden Dock for everyone to enjoy.
“Our vision is to bring people and nature closer together by offering a fully accessible floating freshwater pool, lifeguarded and open year-round, supported by a hub of health, wellbeing and food and beverage businesses.”
Sea Lanes is known for operating the UK’s first National Open Water Swimming Centre in Brighton.
CWG CEO, Shobi Khan, said: “Almost one year on from the opening of Eden Dock, we’re making another bold step forward in the enhancement of our green and blue spaces at Canary Wharf.
“Sea Lanes Canary Wharf will build on the success of Eden Dock as a unique wellness destination, where access to nature, leisure and world-class amenities are seamlessly integrated.”
CWG associate director arts and events, Pippa Dale, added: “We’re excited to enter the public consultation stage of Sea Lanes Canary Wharf.
“Natural water swimming offers proven benefits for both physical and mental wellbeing – from improved circulation and stress reduction to enhanced mood and resilience.
“By creating this dedicated swimming destination, we’re bringing these transformative health benefits directly to our community of residents, workers and visitors.”
The installation will include a floating lido as well as facilities on land – image by Canary Wharf Group
“A long, long time ago, I used to work as a senior coordinator for a nursery school, so this brought back memories,” said Cllr Maium Talukdar.
Tower Hamlets Council’s deputy mayor and cabinet member for education, youth and lifelong learning, recently attended morning Story Time at a temporary pop-up children’s library at Idea Store Canary Wharf.
His visit, aside from lending a pretty decent impression of a bear to proceedings, was aimed at drawing attention to works currently underway to improve the facility.
Canary Wharf Group is spending £1.2million on its refurbishment with a further £250,000 contributed towards the project from the council.
“We’re grateful to Canary Wharf Group – it’s not just us doing this, it’s a partnership – and I’m hoping this will be a very popular facility,” said Cllr Talukdar.
“Lots of families and children will use it and it will make a huge difference to the area.
“I think what’s here is changing – 10 or 15 years ago, Canary Wharf was very different, but I think different communities are coming in now and getting involved.
“They are using the shopping centres and this Idea Store. Lots of people are benefiting from that.
“When this refurbishment is complete, I think this facility will be one of the best in Tower Hamlets – it will have everything.
“This place is for everybody – all ages – and we hope as many people as possible will come and use it.”
A Story Time session at Idea Store Canary Wharf’s temporary pop-up – image by Jon Massey / Wharf Life
making the changes at Idea Store Canary Wharf
The refurbishment is being undertaken by contractor Built.
The firm’s commercial lead, Thomas Howe, said: “It’s a full mechanical and electrical upgrade.
“There will be new flooring, new wall configurations, a fresh set of ceilings and it will be a much more user-friendly space.
“We’re increasing the floorspace and installing new joinery that’s more space efficient.
“We’re still awaiting the final layout, but increasing the ceiling height is a big thing for us.
“We’ll have fresh sets of data cabling, with new technology and computers for people to use.
“It’s really important to maximise the space for the kids here so they are able to enjoy stories and bang drums in a nice new environment.”
The fit-out will include new heating, cooling, ventilation and lighting, with completion expected before the end of the year.
A spokesperson for Canary Wharf Group said: “Our involvement in the refurbishment of Idea Store Canary Wharf represents our ongoing dedication to creating an inclusive neighbourhood where learning opportunities are made accessible for all.
“We’re proud to support a facility that combines traditional library services with lifelong learning opportunities in the heart of the Wharf.”
Story Time sessions are already popular on the Wharf, attracting some 10,158 visitors over the past year.
In August alone, 188 people attended Story Time Up On The Roof at Crossrail Place Roof Garden.
Idea Stores are for Tower Hamlets residents of all ages offering a wide range of services including adult learning courses, activities and events.
Cllr Maium Talukdar, Tower Hamlets Council’s deputy mayor and cabinet member for education, youth and lifelong learning – image by Jon Massey / Wharf Life
key details: Idea Store Canary Wharf
Idea Store Canary Wharf is currently closed for refurbishment with a limited pop-up library operating next door to the site.
Services currently being offered include Story Time for under 5s, which runs from 10.30am-11am, Monday-Saturday. Sessions are free to attend.
The refurbishments works are expected to be completed before the end of the year.
Part of the skill of development is the ability to turn a flat piece of earth into a place that will attract residents and provide the facilities and conditions capable of generating community.
Ballymore has effected exactly this sort of transformation in Leamouth.
Occupying a patch of land where London’s second largest river, the winding Lea meets the might of the Thames, the company has cleared and reimagined former industrial land as a residential quarter, first with the colourful towers of London City Island and more recently at Goodluck Hope to the south.
The sister schemes, connected to Canning Town station by a vibrant red bridge are a compelling proposition for buyers in an area that’s seen profound regeneration in recent years.
Apartments, lofts and penthouses are still available at Goodluck Hope.
Potential are buyers invited down to join existing residents and those living in surrounding areas for the remaining events of The Islander Festival 2025, an annual celebration of the area’s vibrancy.
These gatherings serve both as a way to introduce people to the area as well as a way to strengthen and enrich the existing community.
For this event The Lockdown Room will be setting up shop at the Goodluck Hope Dry Dock with live music, street food and a cocktail bar for three hours of sunset entertainment.
Its venues across Europe all have different names and aesthetics and, while there’s variance in the menus, there’s also overlap.
It’s smart. Rather than rely on a brand like The Ivy, Strada or Prezzo – good examples, perhaps, of where chains have created the perception of quality watered down as they’ve rolled out – the mission here is to bedazzle with baubles.
Big Mamma, presumably, sits in her parlour; a shadowy figure below stairs counting the pennies.
Walk into the Canary Wharf restaurant, festooned with plants and pots outside and you’ll be greeted by a visual onslaught.
There are glossy pottery dogs, a swirly carpet that may have been deliberately mis-fitted to confuse the eye, warmly glowing chandeliers and upstairs, where we’re shown to a table, a mirrored ceiling and vintage shots of models flashing their buttocks for Italian fashion brand Fiorucci.
There’s a lot of PVC on show, complete with outfits framed to accentuate the high-legged thong-backs of the garments.
Oddly, the mildly risqué is offset by an interior filled with soft furnishings that wouldn’t look out of place in a fine dining room.
There’s linen on some tables and thick heavy curtains to deaden the acoustic, softening every sound.
Further offsetting comes with the decision to have chefs in the open kitchen wear red baseball caps – a jarring dash of MAGA against the more refined performance from the front of house staff.
Crocchette Di Vitello Tonnato, little deep-fried balls of pulled veal with capers (£15) – image by Jon Massey / Wharf Life
the start of the show
We haven’t booked and the gatekeeper on the door puts in a decent dramatic performance of straining to fit us in – “but just so you know, we need the table back in 90 minutes”.
Nothing says relaxed Italian dining like a ticking clock.
We’re led upstairs to the luxe hall of mirrors, which is completely empty.
It’s no real surprise. It’s 5pm and the place does fill up as time ticks on.
Initially, things start well. The service is pleasant and relaxed, although the demi-armchairs we sit in are challenging to shuffle closer or further away from the table without awkwardly grabbing them from below and bracing with all one’s might.
Our starters arrive – Crocchette Di Vitello Tonnato, little deep-fried balls of pulled veal with capers (£15) and Smoky Stracciatella, the creamy heart of burrata served in a bowl with a leaf of basil and herby oil (£9).
Smoky Stracciatella (£9) – image by Wharf Life / Jon Massey
Both are surprisingly generous but decent on the tongue.
The five bites of veal feel substantial and the fact one has fallen over and lost its caper, does nothing to lessen the rich, meaty flavour.
The cheese is equally decadent, a lake of gooey loveliness with a dominant hit of smoke in the mouth. A good start.
Raviolone Bicolore (£21) at Barbarella – image by Wharf Life / Jon Massey
a pizza as dry as a desert
However, things go downhill with the mains. Initially, my Raviolone Bicolore – green and yellow pasta filled with ricotta and spinach in a provola sauce and topped with sage and hazelnuts (£21) – is solid enough.
There’s a creaminess to it with a hint of lemon and plenty of crunch from the fried herbs and nuts.
But as things roll on, the dish sags – the fillings, a tad watery, become less interesting.
This challenge is nothing, however, compared to the task my companion is faced with.
Her Carpaccio Diem “pizza” (£22) comes as a toasted, crispy base topped with a load of beef carpaccio, fresh black truffle, rocket and shavings of Parmigiano Reggiano.
Despite a few dollops of truffle aioli, the slice she shared with me was arid – essentially an undressed salad on a dry flatbread – the only moisture on offer coming from the thinly sliced meat.
My companion, whose family hail from Naples, was frankly appalled.
Despite the obvious quality of the ingredients Thursday’s child on Barbarella’s Weekly Pizza menu was indeed full of woe, even if the box we were given to take it home in did have Pavarotti on it with a claim to be specialists in twerking.
Not the kind to waste decent carpaccio, we scraped off the topping and turned it into a salad the following day, complete with dressing.
The Carpaccio Diem “pizza” (£22) – image by Wharf Life / Jon Massey
Barbarella, all-in-all
Which brings me to the final verdict.
Barbarella is unquestionably fun and for £62.88 per head including wine and tip, it sits its guests in the kind of luxury they might expect when paying twice that.
It feels special and was definitely drawing the date night crowd when we visited.
It has good views over the verdant Eden Dock and there’s enough silliness to charm, even if it does feel a little forced.
But buyer beware. While there’s decent cooking on offer here pick your dishes carefully.
The one thing an Italian chain can’t get away with is poor food and there’s room for improvement if that pizza is any indication of overall quality.
★★★✩✩
key details: Barbarella
Barbarella is located on Mackenzie Walk overlooking Eden Dock in Canary Wharf on the lower ground floor of the YY London building (easily identifiable by the Revolut sign at the top of it).
Opening at the junction of West Lane and Brannan Street, the corner bar aims to become a new space for the community.
“It will have London craft beers on tap, a really good cocktail menu, organic wines and our signature smash burgers – a menu we launched at the original site about nine months ago,” said founder Daniel Bull.
“But we’ll also be doing salads because it’s important to offer healthy options.
“We don’t want to be seen as just a craft beer joint that serves dirty burgers.
“We’ll also be offering fantastic sharing platters – it will be a casual place where you can go for a drink and a bite to eat with a group of friends.
“There will also be regular live music and we’ve always been big on events – bringing the community into what we’re doing is very important and we’d love to bring things like our craft beer festival to the neighbourhood.
“We’ve really taken what we have done at London City Island up to the next level for the new site.
“It will have a premium feel to it – very warm, with high-end finishes and bespoke seating.
“But it should still feel welcoming to the community.”
Founder of The Lockdown Room, Daniel Bull – image by Jon Massey / Wharf Life
a place for the community
Daniel said he hoped the brand would strike a chord with residents, workers on the neighbourhood and visitors to the area alike.
“We’re hoping to offer something different to the hustle and bustle,” he said.
“I think people will travel to you if you have a good product and then, once they’ve been down, hopefully they’ll be impressed and come back as regulars.
“What we want to create is the kind of bar where the bartender knows your drink and it’s possible to find a quiet corner or chat with familiar faces.
“We’ll also be opposite the student housing, which has now been approved so that should add a different dynamic to things too.
“The idea is that The Lockdown Room should be somewhere you just want to go at the weekend or in the evenings – that’s the goal.”
While the weather is likely to be cooler when the venue opens, Daniel also plans to have outdoor tables over the warmer months, further adding to the Wood Wharf street scene.
key details: The Lockdown Room in Canary Wharf
The Lockdown Room is expected to open in November at the corner of Brannan Street and West Lane in Wood Wharf.
“It was while I was doing my MBA I had the idea,” said Daniel Bull, founder of Supershakes.
“I’d come in every morning with a Nutribullet, sit in lectures and eat it with a spoon because sometimes the mixture I’d made was so thick.
“People would laugh, but I’d sit there, gradually making my way through it and the energy and focus I’d have all day was amazing.
“On the days I didn’t do it, I’d feel the difference.
“That shake had a similar effect for me as going to the gym – you could have it for breakfast or lunch.
“It was like a meal – if you laid all the ingredients out on a plate you might not get through them, especially if you were busy.
“But having them blended was so convenient.
“That’s when I realised the goal of my business should be to make something quick and easy that people could have on the move and that would be very healthy.”
The result of that spark is Daniel’s latest business – Supershakes, set to open its doors at 8 Harbord Square in Wood Wharf this autumn.
While the business’ clear focus will be on nutritious shakes and grab-and-go options, there will also be space for guests to sit and enjoy coffee and snacks from a carefully curated menu.
Supershakes founder Daniel Bull – image by Jon Massey / Wharf Life
passionate about Supershakes
Daniel said: “Everything has been thought through.
“This brand is something I’m really passionate about and I think there’s a gap in the market.
“At the core of what we do will be the shakes with all the healthy fats, proteins and whole foods you need.
“These will be made to order and customers can customise them with add-ons such as collagen, creatine – everything’s available.
“At the moment, I feel the UK is behind what’s happening in other countries.
“I try to go to California every year and visit all the juice bars there and see what’s happening.
“Over there, getting a juice or a shake is now like picking up a coffee.
“Supershakes is something I’ve been working on for five years now – it’s not something I’ve come up with overnight.
“People in London are cash-rich but time-poor.
“They don’t necessarily have the time to prepare shakes for themselves.
“What we’re offering is something quick and healthy as an option when you’re rushing into work or trying to get the kids off to school.
“When you look at what you’re getting in a shake it’s affordable too.
“It’s less than a cocktail in a bar – we’ve kept our prices very competitive.”
The brand will offer a wide range of healthy options at its Wood Wharf branch – image by Supershakes
one of four to launch
Daniel has four Supershakes locations set to open in the coming months, including the Canary Wharf branch with others located in Royal Docks, in the English National Ballet’s headquarters at London City Island and one on the Isle Of Dogs.
The latter will be next to The Eleventh Hour, a café he launched in 2023 on the ground floor of residential development Wardian.
“My go-to shake is called Power, which is great for the morning because it has everything you need,” said Daniel.
“But there’s lots of flexibility – you can even have coffee in them.
“We have one on the menu that includes espresso so people can double up if they’re in a rush.
“We’ve even got one that we’ve designed especially for the English National Ballet, working with their dietician to help fuel the dancers and that’s really cool.
“The shakes will be made fresh, while the juices will be ready to grab in the fridge.
“One of our selling points is that customers can be in and out in five minutes.
“We want there to be no long queues so people can make us part of their way-to-work routine.
“One of the other things we’ll be stocking is our signature acai bowls.
“They feature home-made granola, created by the pastry chef who also makes our cookies, and we’ve made sure these are packed with the best ingredients.
“That’s more important to us than making big profit margins.
“That’s what I believe in and I’m going to be eating in there every day myself.
“We’ll be open until 8pm every night, so customers can come for breakfast, lunch and perhaps after an evening gym session.
“I’ve lived in Canary Wharf for four and a half years, so I’ve seen Wood Wharf grow and develop.
“I’ve had my eye on it for a while because, knowing what’s going to be here, I believe this will be a new hub for the area.
“There’s a lot for people to discover.”
Daniel hopes grabbing a shake will become like grabbing a coffee – image by Supershakes
an emerging area
Supershakes will join a growing collection of independent businesses opening as part of a collaboration between Canary Wharf Group and Tower Hamlets Council to offer affordable commercial space to locally rooted ventures.
Recent openings have included Pawsome Pet Grooming And Spa, florist The Flower Club, Wayne Hairdresser Salon, nail specialist Awe London, Reformer Pilates studio The Island and Italian bakery Signorelli.
Opening soon will be Japanese bakery Café Seek, Malaysian restaurant Ong Lai Kopitaim and Istanbul-inspired eatery Nora.
key details: Supershakes
Supershakes is set to open its doors at 8 Harbord Square in October.
Joseph (Shangjie) Lyu is quite possibly the first person of Chinese origin to kayak across the English Channel.
However, by his own admission, he’s not especially into kayaking.
“There are three main elements to my life,” said the Stratford resident.
“Work, raising my three-year-old English Cocker Spaniel, Truffle, and rowing. This was really a side quest.”
Joseph came to the UK in 2018 to study computer science at the University Of Manchester after completing a foundation year in his native China, after plans to study in his home country didn’t work out.
“I struggled a bit with the course in Manchester and didn’t really enjoy the software side of it,” he said.
“Then, in the middle, the pandemic arrived and I did a project on Covid in the UK, making predictions on when the turning point would be. It wound up being quite accurate.
“That’s when I realised I enjoyed data analysis and now I’ve taken that into my career in AI as a data scientist.”
Joseph, who currently works for Santander, also had his first taste of rowing at university, but was too engaged with his studies to pursue it again after the pandemic faded away.
It wasn’t until he moved to east London that he took up the sport seriously.
Joseph at Poplar, Blackwall And District Rowing Club on the Isle Of Dogs – image by Jon Massey / Wharf Life
“I did the Learn To Row course in 2022 and I’ve been involved with the club ever since.
“When you’re on a boat – whether crewed or single – if the weather’s nice, it’s one of the best feelings you can have.
“I really enjoy the sport. It’s literally one movement that you’re repeating, but it requires years of effort to refine and apply that consistently.
“I find it very enjoyable.
“It’s normal for us to be out rowing at sunrise and you have London all around you.
“You see seals too.
“In rowing, 10k is considered a relatively short distance, while 20k is quite long. Around 15k is standard.
“Rowing from Tower Bridge to the Thames Barrier is the kind of thing we do at the club.
“Then, a couple of years ago, I realised that the English Channel is not really that wide – it’s about three times the distance between those two landmarks, not an unimaginable journey.
“I’d had the idea I might want to try something and thinking about it like that gave me a frame of reference – a distance on the water I was already comfortable with.
“This gave me confidence.”
Setting out from Rye – image supplied by Joseph Lyu
an idea into reality
After mentioning to friends from the club on the way back from a trip to Henley Royal Regatta, plans began to ferment.
“Making up my mind was the hardest part and I did that around the start of this year,” said Joseph.
“I’d worked out what was doable, what was difficult and so I didn’t commit to it when I had the idea.
“Taking the leap was difficult but coming to this year, physically I was in good shape from years of rowing.
“I felt I was in a good place and I’m in my mid-20s so it needed to happen before any physical decline.
“I thought that if I couldn’t commit to doing it now, with all the time and having everything I needed, then I might never convince myself to try.
“I kept thinking about swimmers – about 2,000 have crossed – and if they could do it, I could too.”
Having little kayking experience, Joseph next went about equipping himself with the skills necessary to make the journey.
He spent time training on the sea off the south coast as well as hitting the water at nearby Docklands Sailing And Watersports Centre.
“I gained confidence after the instructor in Hastings said I was pretty good,” said Joseph.
“Many of the skills I’d developed rowing on the river were transferable and there was a lot of fitness training in the gym.
“I became more active. One of the things that’s changed for me is that I used to just go rowing in the morning, but now I might do that, then go swimming later and maybe go on a hike with Truffle.”
Joseph had a goal to work towards.
He’d managed to secure a booking with a pilot boat – an essential escort across the busiest shipping lane in the world, especially because the French insist those paddling across must be carried in a powered craft over the part of the route they administer.
Weather dependent, the pilot advised Friday, July 18, 2025, would be best, so Joseph and a friend travelled down to Rye the night before, ate some fish and chips and laid in plenty of bananas and energy bars for his solo trip in a hired kayak.
Paddling through the fog – image supplied by Joseph Lyu
setting off for France
“The next day we got to the harbour at 6.30am and met the pilot boat captain,” said Joseph.
“It wasn’t cold, but it was very foggy. We could hardly see anything.
“But we decided to set off anyway. The captain was in constant contact with the Coastguard.
“Because of the lack of visibility we didn’t know whether we’d get clearance to cross the shipping lanes but the captain suggested we paddle out for about an hour and then decide.
“When we started, I felt like it was going to be a good day.
“All the months of preparation had led to this point and I felt like we would make it. I kept going and my energy was at a good level.
“The fog was still heavy but from time to time I could see the sun.
“Every now and then I’d see a big ship and they really are huge.
“Then everything happened so suddenly.
“In one minute it just changed – the fog lifted and the sun came out, and then I was rewarded with the most surreal water conditions.
“The sea was totally flat, the sky was blue and the visibility was really good. I really enjoyed that transition.
“I was busy paddling, but the crew spotted dolphins and jellyfish.
“When I paddled over to the boat for some water and I heard the Coastguard telling the big ships about my crossing, which was exciting.
“We got clearance and I paddled over this calm, serene water, with these massive vessels in the background – it was an interesting contrast.
“Then we reached the French side and I had to get in the boat for that before getting back in the kayak to finish the final six miles.
“That’s when it became challenging physically.
“We weren’t going straight, because the current was pushing our course into a curve.
“The whole journey was about 70 kilometres and the last bit was the most difficult.
“I could see France very clearly, but it felt like it wasn’t getting any closer.
“I’d actually preferred it in the middle with the fog, because I just kept going, even though I couldn’t see anything.
“In that last five miles I lost the sense of progress – my mind was playing tricks, so I really had to concentrate on the strokes.”
Arriving in France – image supplied by Joseph Lyu
a sense of achievement
Joseph did make it to France, pulling into the harbour, tired but happy.
After a shower and a change of clothes, plus a couple of well-deserved pints, there was time to reflect on his achievement.
“The weather was really good, and that’s when I started to feel more excited,” he said.
“I realised that I’d done it and it was incredible.
“I believe I’m the first Chinese person to have done this.
“I’ve googled it and can’t find anyone else.
“Also, you have to have a pilot boat to make a crossing like this and there are only a handful operating.
“It’s also to the best of my pilot’s knowledge that I am the first one, although I didn’t think about any of this until I saw a news report on the first Chinese person to swim across.
“For me, it was just something I wanted to do.
“I put the effort in and I made it happen.
“I never really doubted whether I could do it.
“Having done it does give me a foundation for other things, more side quests.
“Rowing is my main thing and I don’t have any plans to do any more kayaking, but I am also getting into free diving and I’m going to Malta to do a spear fishing course.
“I’m also planning to return to France in October, cycling from London to Paris with a friend from rowing.”
key details: Poplar, Blackwall And District Rowing Club
Poplar, Blackwall And District Rowing Club is located close to Island Gardens on the Isle Of Dogs and offers a range of membership options as well as very popular introductory courses.
They help us make sense of who we are and where we are.
Whether passed mouth-to-mouth or written down, they have been the main conduit for human communication down the centuries.
Even in the age of social media, where video is the dominant force, we can’t do without explanation – an editorial take on what’s being presented.
Images alone are not enough, we have to tell each other what they mean through captions or voiceovers.
The world over, the recording and telling of tales about the world defines our species – bees in the hive doing a complicated waggledance to tell others where the honey is and whether it’s any good.
The Greeks and Romans had their philosophical dialogues, their myths and their plays. The Vikings had their sagas and the people of Wessex and England had the Anglo Saxon Chronicle.
Replica Viking longship the Saga Farmann sails up the Thames on its way to the Classic Boat Festival at St Katharine Docks on September 6 and 7, 2025 – image by Jon Massey / Wharf Life
first, a bit of context
As part of a £1.6million National Lottery Heritage Fund grant, its Lighting Up The Lea initiative will see a home for history created on the banks of the river.
The roof of its glass Heritage Pavilion will be the Frederick Kitchen – a Welsh lifeboat that was probably the last vessel built at the Thames Ironworks.
It is currently being restored on-site and has stories of its own to tell.
When work is finished, its hull will shelter quarterly exhibitions about the history of the River Lea and the lands along its length – stories for the people who are here now, drawing them closer to the past.
As that project sails steadily onwards, Wharf Life will be working in partnership with Cody Dock to dip readers’ toes in some of the extraordinary tales that London’s second largest natural waterway has been a party to over the centuries.
In more recent times the area has been fertile ground for social change and industrial endeavour, but for this article we’re going back a bit further…
An artist’s impression of Cody Dock’s new Heritage Pavilion, which is set to be built on the banks of the River Lea – image by Cody Dock
Viking aggression on the River Lea
There are ships sailing up the Lea.
It’s 894 AD – 1,131 years ago – and Danish Vikings from Mersea Island in Essex are progressing up the river.
Their aim is to build a fortress roughly 20 miles north of London.
It’s a febrile time, but for a while there has been peace.
After King Alfred of Wessex defeated Danish warlord Guthrum and the Great Heathen Army in 878, the Lea took on a new significance – it became a border, a line of division through a marshy landscape of wetlands.
The Treaty Of Alfred And Guthrum – which survives to this day in the collection of Corpus Christi College, Cambridge – officially created that frontier.
Different gods, different ways of life, but a pledge of loyalty by the Danes to Alfred in return for peace – an accord that included a schedule for “weregild” or man price.
This was a fine that would be paid by one side to the other should there be future killings, with the amounts subject to the status of the victims.
Alfred also insisted Guthrum convert to Christianity and be baptised as his godson, taking the name Æthelstan.
For a while the Danelaw, as it became known, worked.
The Vikings had their substantial chunk of England and the Anglo Saxons had theirs.
But change is a constant. It couldn’t last. Guthrum died in 890.
a test for Wessex
Now the Danes are restless and flexing.
Their voyage up the Lea is a test of Wessex and Alfred’s resolve, directly on the border.
Their arrival prompts swift action.
First a local force of Saxons rises up and routs the provocateurs as they are constructing their fortifications.
Then Alfred arrives and messes with the river itself.
Exactly where and how is unclear – he may have dammed it, obstructed it or fortified it – but both banks are likely involved.
This may have been in what we now know as east London or further upstream, the Anglo Saxon Chronicle isn’t completely clear.
Suddenly, though, the Danes find themselves unable to escape in their ships and they flee with the Saxon army in hot pursuit.
Eventually they wind up in Shropshire.
The tale, however. doesn’t end there. Londoners sail some of the abandoned Viking ships back down the Lea in triumph, breaking up any that are unserviceable.
While we can’t be certain, there’s every possibility that these captured vessels provided vital intelligence and inspiration, with King Alfred ordering a series of long ships built just one year later – vessels with 60 oars or more that would prove decisive in naval battles against the Danes on the south coast.
So next time you take a walk along the River Lea, remember it was once a dividing line between two countries, that its waters are rich with history and that the aftermath of a battle fought somewhere along its length a little over a thousand years ago may have led to what many regard as the birth of the English Navy.
from Vikings to monks
This story of Viking unrest, religious diplomacy and clever military tactics is far from the only tale of the Lea in pre-industrial times.
In a valley carved out by the meltwater of the ice age, the river has a long and complex narrative, much of which is sadly lost to the passage of time.
We know Old Ford is where the Romans crossed on their way to Colchester.
We know the river’s course has changed radically through human action – the felling of forests, the draining of marshes, the digging of culverts and the creation of fish traps and channels for water mills.
Today it’s part of the boundary between Tower Hamlets and Newham, but it’s also divided Essex and Middlesex and was once fortified as a potential line of defence during the Second World War.
But there’s much to be gained by looking further back.
Few, for example, may know that Abbey Road station on the DLR and the street it serves are echoes of Stratford Langthorne Abbey.
Little is left, but this institution exerted a profound influence on the area for 400 years some 240 after the Vikings were sailing up and down.
From its creation in 1135, the abbey acquired much land, farming the surrounding marshes and cutting channels to lessen the risk of flooding.
It also owned and operated tidal mills on the River Lea that ground flour to make bread for the bakers of Stratford-Atte-Bow who supplied the City Of London.
There are even reports that a small river port was created to serve the needs of both the institution’s monks, lay brothers and other inhabitants.
It served as the court of King Henry III in 1267, where he met emissaries of the pope and made peace with the barons after the Battle Of Evesham.
It was also sacked during the peasants revolt – singled out as a Cistercian abbey for its “acquisitiveness in matters of land and tithes”.
An unpopular landlord, perhaps.
But by the time of the Dissolution Of The Monasteries under Henry VIII, the abbey was the fifth largest in England, easily on a level of importance with its sister institutions at Jervaulx, Rievaulx and Fountains in North Yorkshire.
a home for the stories
It’s stories like these that will be celebrated and explored under the mahogany curve of the Frederick Kitchen when Cody Dock’s Heritage Pavilion comes to fruition.
Here will be a place where Vikings and monks can come alive, overlooking the curves of the river that shaped their times.
One of the founding principles of the Gasworks Dock Partnership which is undertaking the ecological regeneration of Cody Dock is to provide engagement for local people.
By continuing to research and showcase the remarkable history of the area, it adds a further dimension to that work – offering a vessel for the living history of local residents and a way to present meaningful tales from the far flung past.
Today we smile and take photos of a replica Viking long ship sailing up the Thames to take part in a boat festival at St Katharine Docks.
But just imagine the terror and uncertainty spotting a host of Danes from Essex slipping quietly up the Lea must have generated.
What did they want? Why were they here? Who could we turn to? What a sight it must have been.
Additional research by Cody Dock’s Julia Briscoe
key details: River Lea heritage at Cody Dock
Cody Dock is located on the edge of Canning Town right beside the River Lea. The closest public transport is Star Lane DLR station.
The regeneration project offers a wide range of volunteering opportunities and runs regular events and activities aimed at engaging the local community with its work to regenerate the area and protect and record the wildlife of the River Lea.
You can find out more at its Lighting Up The Lea event on Saturday, September 20, 2025, which is free to attend from 11am-6pm.
Three and a half decades ago, no major international businesses called Canary Wharf home.
Since then, the towers built as part of the area’s regeneration from derelict, unused docklands have attracted and housed a vast range of companies and organisations.
Predicting the demise of an area is a fertile activity for the generation of column inches.
However, it’s perplexing – at best – that the confident prophets of decline failed to spot the solid foundations the Wharf’s success over the last 25 years has been built on and the growth and strengthening of that infrastructure that has taken place more recently.
In reality there has been no pause in the Canary Wharf project.
Wood Wharf continues to attract new residents and businesses and North Quay with its vertical wet labs is also in the pipeline.
The latter is particularly significant for the ongoing diversification of the estate’s tenants.
While some firms have decided to move, this might sensibly be seen as natural churn in an area that other companies are increasingly eyeing as an attractive option.
Barclays, Fitch and Morgan Stanley have all recently recommitted to the estate.
BBVA and Smartest Energy have both expanded their presence, while the likes the Bank Of London And The Middle East and McLaren Construction Group have arrived.
It’s also a time of renewal, with refurbished and reimagined spaces frequently preferred to relocation away from the Wharf.
Citibank is currently refreshing its headquarters in Canada Square, while Revolut – once a handful of employees at the estate’s tech community, Level39 – has claimed the upper levels of YY London, a freshly renovated building right outside the Jubilee line’s main entrance.
With JP Morgan outgrowing its 25 Bank Street building and taking space in Credit Suisse’s former block, recent reports suggest the banking giant is looking seriously at restarting a project to build new towers on the western edge of Canary Wharf overlooking the Thames at Westferry.
Then there are other incomers including challenger bank Zopa, Hershey’s, Hexaware, hVIVO and AviadoBio.
Did I mention Visa is also reportedly seeking space at One Canada Square?
All-in-all it’s proving to be something of a vintage year for leasing on the estate – especially given HSBC’s decision to rent some 210,000sq ft of space in Canary Wharf at 40 Bank Street making its relocation to the City in 2027 only partial.
Director, offices at Canary Wharf Group, Tarun Mathur – image by CWG
HSBC retains a Canary Wharf presence
“It’s a real endorsement of what we’ve done over the last few years,” said Tarun Mathur, director, offices at Canary Wharf Group.
“That’s not just in terms of the quality of our buildings, but also the environment and the value that HSBC clearly sees in what’s being delivered here for their employees going forward.
“It’s been a fantastic year, with over 450,000sq ft of transactions – this is the strongest 12 months we’ve had for a decade – and a lot of that has been driven by existing customers expanding as well as new entrants.
“Digital bank BBVA, for example, did a major review of where they wanted to be, which focussed on Canary Wharf vs the City for their expansion.
“For them, it was about value and amenity provision – their staff are really happy here and we’ve had an ongoing partnership with them.
“As a long-term owner of our assets, the ability to enable companies to scale here is hugely significant.”
Canary Wharf Group has seen vacancies fall to 6% across its portfolio, which includes 40 Bank Street – image by CWG
right product, right time
For Tarun, the recent leasing successes are a combination of providing the right product and doing it in the right place.
He said: “Firstly the building has to work – value and workplace environment are key. In the case of Zopa, which is moving to Wood Wharf’s 20 Water Street, the bank found it really appealing.
“Businesses are now thinking about their workplace, not just within the four walls, but also the micro environment and how their employees can benefit from the ecosystem of Canary Wharf.
“The blue and green spaces we have here are as good as anywhere in London and then there’s the access to local amenities. As a package, occupiers are seeing that as immensely valuable.
“The Elizabeth Line is also a game-changer.
“It creates additional capacity alongside the Jubilee line and the DLR, as well as resilience.
“There’s been a bit of a time-lag, but the real estate office market is now benefiting from it as those advantages filter up to the level where occupiers make decisions and those claims are backed up by our footfall numbers.
“In 2024, 72million people came to Canary Wharf – that’s a stratospheric increase on 2019 and it’s a figure that’s forecast to be exceeded in 2025.”
a wider appeal
Tarun said there were a number of factors that were making Canary Wharf attractive to companies at present, not least the wider regeneration of east London.
“For some businesses it’s about the fact that the capital is moving east, so there’s a large, younger pool of talent that they’re looking to target within the radius of the estate,” he said.
“It also goes back to what we’re delivering – a high quality product with the best workplace experience that meets the needs of our clients.
“There is constraint in the office market at the moment and that means organisations are having to be more open-minded about location.
“Some years ago, there was more of an insistence in some sectors that they stay as close to their existing buildings as possible.
“We’ve seen a slight shift in that this year because of supply and demand of Grade A products.
“It’s exciting for the future because our existing stock is filling up.
“Our current vacancy rate is around 6%.
“We were around 10% about 12 months ago, so it’s come down quite significantly.
“Right now, it’s all about the buildings we’re getting back and how we can reposition those products for the next-generation occupier, so that’s where our focus is and it’s really exciting.
“Then we’re looking at what we can do to integrate these towers better into the public realm than they were when they were designed 30 years ago.
“Back then occupiers wanted large, secure reception areas on the ground floor. Now they want them to be amenity rich with lots of vibrancy.
“Until you get the buildings back, there’s only so much you can do but our teams have done an amazing job activating the estate with arrivals such as the Troubadour Theatre coming later this year.
“I think in 10 years time we will see more permeability across the estate with links from building to building and a lot more engagement for workers, residents and visitors.
“The ongoing process of diversification will continue but we’ll stay true to ourselves – tapping into new markets.
“We’ll see growth in the technology sector here alongside life sciences and financial services.
“Canary Wharf is a place for everyone and we’re demonstrating that. It’s a long time since it was just a financial or business district.”
key details: commercial space available in Canary Wharf
Workspace at Canary Wharf is currently available at Level39, One Canada Square, 40 Bank Street, One Bank Street and The Columbus Building.
“We were in Stratford very successfully last summer,” said Bradley Hemmings, GDIF founder and artistic director.
“The area has been transformed in the most remarkable way over the last few years, especially since the 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games.
“The advent of the new East Bank cultural quarter, which includes phenomenal outdoor spaces was the focus for Dancing City in 2024.
“This year we’re bringing 15 dance companies together here.
“Much of the action will take place in the town centre, with audiences also able to cross over to East Bank and into the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park to see more performances.
“We’ve expanded the programme for 2025 because we welcomed such large numbers to the shows last year we wanted to make sure we could spread over the wider area.”
Raquel Gaultero will present 360º in the Olympic Park – image by La Gualtero
Dancing City highlights
The one-day festival, which runs from 1pm-6.30pm, will feature the likes of dancer Joe Powell-Main – the first wheelchair user to dance with the Royal Ballet – who returns to GDIF with Passionately Defiant.
Billed as a “joyous celebration of dance and disability pride, which challenges perceptions of classical ballet” the piece will be performed at 1.55pm and 3.30pm at Marshgate South next to UCL East in the Olympic Park.
Also in the park will be 360º, a constantly rotating 17-minute show from Columbian dancer Raquel Gaultero that promises “an all-encompassing evocation of female lived experience”.
This includes nods to childhood games, motherhood and connection to the planet.
As ever, GDIF’s programme seeks to celebrate both the cultural landscape of east London while also reaching out.
This year Dancing City will welcome a triple bill presented in partnership with Fire Island Dance Festival.
The trio of shows will each be performed three times simultaneously at East Bank’s Waterfront at 1pm, 3.30pm and 6.05pm.
Courtney’s Diner will be presented as part of the Fire Island collaboration – image by Elyse Mertz
lighting the fire
Bradley said: “Each is led by LGBTQIA+ artists and they will be presented together.
“Fire Island Dance Festival in New York state is legendary.
“It was started in the 1990s in response to the AIDS crisis, which the area was very much at the epicentre of.
“It’s gone on to benefit people living with HIV across the US and beyond.
“The performances over there are on the waterfront with some of the most amazing staging I have ever seen.
“We’re trying to bring some of that energy to Stratford with these performances.
“What we’re also trying to do on September 6, 2025, is to create something that’s very permeable with shows taking place outside in public spaces.
“There will also be a link to Sadler’s Wells East at East Bank, which has been designed with a connection between the indoors and outdoors in mind.
“As part of Dancing City, we’ll be collaborating with them for One Sky, a performance that takes inspiration from South African kite festivals.
“It’s brilliant, taking place on the bridge over to the Olympic Park in front of East Bank in a celebration of togetherness.
“There’s something that happens at a festival like in public spaces like these.
“People share something and it’s very uplifting.
“It doesn’t happen very often, but we know from the feedback we get how grateful audiences are.
“We’re celebrating our 30th anniversary this year and I already have a very long list of what I want to do in the future.
“GDIF has always been about the community, the audiences who come to cherish the performances and the organisations that support us.
“We want to ensure we’re here for another 30 years.”
Ballet dancer Joe Powell-Main who performs with the aid of a wheelchair, will present Passionately Defiant – image by David Edwards
key details: Dancing City
Dancing City, part of the Greenwich + Docklands International Festival is set to return to Stratford on Saturday, September 6, 2025, from 1pm-6.30pm.
All shows are free, with multiple repetitions to allow audiences to see as many performances as possible.
