Business owned by Philip Chalk and Wayne Carter is a temple to menswear, creating bespoke suits, shirts and other garments at Greenwich Market
Subscribe to our free Wharf Whispers newsletter here
“My mother was a dressmaker, who also did alterations and worked for companies,” said Philip Chalk, tailor and co-owner of the Greenwich Collective.
“Until I started school at the age of five, I’d sit beside her, tinkering.
“We’d make things and play with sewing machines.
“My family in Portugal were tailors, shirt-makers and so on, there was skill there.”
Almost absent-mindedly, while we’re talking, Philip has noticed a loose button on his jacket and – without breaking conversation – cuts it off and sews it neatly back on, all without removing the garment from his shoulders.
It’s a small detail, but then there’s a feeling that the Greenwich Collective is all about paying attention to those.
The shop, which Philip owns with his business partner Wayne Carter, is – at first glance – a glorious melange of menswear.
There are rails hung with suits and shirts, vibrant displays of ties, canes, umbrellas, socks and cuff-links.
Some are for sale, some are works in progress for clients. Everywhere there are antique pieces, artworks and curios.
This is no loosely connected bric-a-brac, though. Like the fine clothes created within, everything has been chosen.
a passion for retail
Philip has an extensive history in the industry, evidenced perhaps by the stacks of swatches in innumerable sample books stacked neatly along one wall,
In addition to studying at the London College Of Fashion and working as a bespoke tailor, he’s spent time at Ted Baker, TM Lewin, Thomas Pink and once bought a shoe shop from David Moss (of Moss Bros) – learning a considerable amount about selling footwear in the process.
His is a history of Jermyn Street, floral shirts, Soho, kosher tailoring, Docklands, Whitechapel, riotous nights out and making clothes for classical composers.
Now, the shop in Greenwich is something of a labour of love – the display window for an operation employing around 29 people.
“I’ve always loved the retail side of the business and at this stage I’m bored with the idea of purely trying to make money,” said Philip.
“We offer the best alterations, we’re the best tailors in the country and possibly the best shirt-makers in the world.
“I do the tailoring and Wayne does the shirts. It’s hard, but we enjoy it – I’ve run lots of different kinds of businesses and it’s about wanting to do something you’re interested in.
“Our pieces are bespoke and made the way our customers like, generally with our stamp on them.
“Everything is considered, every detail.”
establishing the why
Prices at Greenwich Collective start at around £2,400 for a bespoke two-piece suit and £275 for a shirt.
Customers can choose from a wide range of fabrics and styles with details to meet every requirement.
“People come into the shop, we sit down, have a drink and see what’s doable,” said Philip.
“We often talk finance as early as possible to understand what can be done.
“They say no-one knows you as well as your doctor or your tailor and it’s so true.
“As for the latter, they should be asking what a customer wants a suit for?
“Is it for a career, are they looking for promotion, to get noticed?
“Is it for a date, just to look cool or will they be dancing in it or travelling?
“When it’s for a wedding there’s a lot to consider – the shirt, tie, socks and the shoes. I tend to do masculine tailoring, I dress clients to glide.
“Most people want to look like James Bond or Cary Grant, so that’s what we try to achieve.
“I generally put my clients in better cloth than you’d expect for the price.
“We have dozens of swatch books from all kinds of factories, but there are a few suppliers I advise people to deal with over the others because they offer high quality that’s great value.
“I’d rather put people in a really good suit so they feel at their best.
“If you went to Savile Row, you might find yourself paying £10,000 for a suit made from the same cloth.
“So long as we cover our costs and our risk, we’re happy to offer the prices we do.”
connected to the community
Greenwich Collective has been trading for close to five years, but has a timeless feel about it.
As we’re chatting, Philip is constantly waving to people through the window, pointing out artists and singers that he knows.
It’s clear there’s connection and community here, which is part of the attraction.
“We get involved with stuff – the Greenwich Historical Society, pub crawls, the other traders on the market,” he said.
“I enjoy it. Everything in the shop is for sale, but it’s not.
“Some things I can’t part with. I have a lot of stuff and I enjoy it – I must have 20,000 pairs of cuff-links, 8,000 ties.
“I go to a lot of auctions and buy things – old surveyor’s sticks, tripods, antiques – I take pleasure in them.
“Some things we sell are new, others are old. I’m passionate about vintage clothing too.
“A great thing to do is to buy a vintage piece for the quality and then have us alter it to fit.
“Sometimes it’s equally hard to part with the clothes we make.
“If you’ve spent 200 hours making something, it can be hard to say goodbye to it, but you know the customer will take real pleasure in it.”
key details: Greenwich Collective
Greenwich Collective is located in Nelson Arcade at the southern end of Greenwich Market.
Drop into the shop, call 020 3795 4328 or email gc@thegreenwichcollective.uk to book an appointment or make and enquiry.
Greenwich Market is easily accessible from Canary Wharf via the DLR to Cutty Sark and a short walk.
Alternatively visitors can take the Uber Boat By Thames Clippers or walk via the Greenwich Foot Tunnel.
Read more: How BGC Group donated a record $16million for charity this year
Read Wharf Life’s e-edition here
Subscribe to our free Wharf Whispers newsletter here
