“We hold the food to our lips for two minutes to see how much our mouths water,” said Kul Acharya.
“That’s how we find out how tasty the dishes are.
“We cook everything fresh – meat, vegetables every day – and you have to taste it to know whether you’ve made something delicious.”
Kul should know. Born and raised in the small village of Dhairing in Nepal, he worked first as a primary school teacher before travelling to the UK on a tourist visa.
“I wanted to be a chef,” he said. “I came as a visitor and then started to work washing dishes at the Bombay Bicycle Club.
“Then I started cooking, learnt very quickly and eventually became head chef helping with the opening of new branches.”
It recently opened its second, taking over a corner space at Narrow Street’s Mosaic development in Limehouse – less than 15 minutes’ walk from the Canary Wharf estate.
Here he hopes to tap into both the east London dining and takeaway markets as the business grows.
“I have been engaged in different things in recent years,” said Kul, who is the current president of the Non-Resident Nepali Association’s International Coordination Council.
“But my focus is now on the business. I would like to have 20 locations in the Greater London area by 2025.
“We opened one in Portugal last year but had to close due to the pandemic, so I would also like to grow elsewhere in Europe.”
The restaurant opened to the public in January
For now though, it’s the food in London that’s very much on Kul’s mind.
A dish of Murg Masala arrives along with some spinach and rice during our interview and he’s much more concerned that I eat it while it’s hot rather than faff with photography.
It’s a measure of the warmth diners can expect at the new venue.
“What we serve is a fusion of Nepali, Indian and European food,” said Kul.
“The first question I always ask myself is: ‘Am I comfortable eating what I cook?’. If the answer is yes, then we can sell it. If not, then we don’t sell it.
“I’m always checking to see if there’s the right amount of chilli or salt in our dishes. The way our food looks is also very important.
“We work with a lot of vegetables and they have to be appetising and fresh.
“It’s very important to understand our customers when deciding which dishes to serve.
“Nepali food is generally less heavy – our tomato sauces, for example are lighter, not oily at all and the dahl we serve is more delicate.
“People like what we do – it’s great to get so many good reviews. Hopefully we can continue that success in Canary Wharf.
“For me, coming to this country was a golden opportunity.
“My ambition was to be a chef but before I came here I wasn’t even thinking about the possibility of having even one restaurant.
“Really I just wanted to be head chef. I certainly never thought that one day I would have more than 200 people working for me.”
Holy Cow is open daily from noon for dining and takeaway orders.
- Jon Massey is co-founder and editorial director of Wharf Life and writes about a wide range of subjects in Canary Wharf, Docklands and east London - contact via jon.massey@wharf-life.com
That the resolution takes and the good intentions are converted into consistent, positive action?
January and February are traditionally the months of busy gyms as, for whatever reason, people decide to get fit, lose weight, gain muscle, improve their endurance or boost flexibility.
But, how to achieve those goals and develop a habit that will stick beyond the arrival of spring?
Along with her colleagues, her role is to help the health club’s members take the steps they need to get where they want to go.
“Our message for 2023 is all about training for life,” said Clare. “It’s the idea that everything you do in the gym supports what you do outside it.
“At Third Space we provide facilities where you can train every part of your body.
“But it’s not just the physical, it’s also about training the mind and about the restorative side of things.”
Billed as the largest luxury health club in Europe and spread over three floors of the building that houses Waitrose in Canada Square, Third Space Canary Wharf isn’t short on space or amenities.
There are free weights, a swimming pool, a climbing wall, saunas, steam rooms, ranks of cardio machines, a combat zone, weights machines and a vast Crossfit-inspired training area called The Yard.
Third Space Canary Wharf is currently undergoing a major update
That’s before you even get to the hundreds of classes every week – all included in the monthly membership. So how best to navigate such a wealth of options?
“The best thing you can do if you’re coming into training or returning to the gym, is to get as much guidance as possible,” said Clare, who trained as a dancer before embarking on a career in the fitness industry.
“You’ll see people on social media promoting crazy workouts and doing 30-day challenges. They can be great as a gateway into fitness but they are only ever the start.
“You want to be training to make your life easier, whether that’s with the aim of climbing a mountain or just running after your kids in the playground.
“In my classes I use the example of my mum. She’s retired and she loves hiking.
“She was struggling on the hikes to get over stiles, so I’ve given her barre exercises and Pilates for strength, flexibility and stability.
“It’s about working out why you want to train – whether your goals are aesthetic or fitness related. I think having longer term goals really helps.
“They make you realise you don’t need to go hell for leather – you don’t want to start with a marathon if you’ve not been running before.
“It’s the same with any type of training – pace yourself, get expert guidance and speak to the instructors for advice.
“They will be able to suggest classes that will help.
“For example, a high intensity class will be very fast-paced with larger movements designed to switch on the bigger muscles.
“Adding in something like a Pilates class can help by focusing on the lesser muscles in the body that help with posture and general alignment.
“It’s more of a holistic approach to help maintain a balanced body and avoid injury.”
Then there are the mental health benefits, derived from both intense exercise and slower disciplines.
“People who train regularly can expect to feel like they have more energy,” said Clare, who practises circus skills including the trapeze, outside work.
“The endorphins it creates give you a natural mood boost and help minimise pain.
“Training makes you feel better about your life, yourself, better in your body on a mechanical level, a bit brighter, stronger and fitter.
“Walking up the escalator on the Tube won’t leave you puffing at the top.
“There’s something about lifting a weight that’s heavier than the one a week before, when you feel connected to your breath doing Yoga or when you go swimming and you can do more lengths than the time before.
“We lead such busy lives, especially in London – having the space to concentrate on one thing is really important.
Clare enjoys Yin Yoga as a break from busy London life
“My favourite Yoga practice is actually Yin – it focuses on the softer, slower aspects of the discipline, with long held postures that are quite meditative.
“It’s good if you just need that little bit of space in your day – you can come into our studio, it’s warm, we dim the lights, we have calm music, and we’re creating that relaxing atmosphere.
“It’s like a haven – a third space away from work and home life where you can come in and only focus on yourself.
“Of course, one of the other great things about Third Space is the community.
“Members meet other members and become friends, whether that’s through attending classes or just chatting in the sauna.
“One of the things we’ve learnt during the pandemic is that people need other people – isolation isn’t good for humans at all.
“It might simply be that you’re in a class, finding it tough, look to your left and right and feel that sense of connection – something that spurs you on.
“As a teacher, it’s really beautiful when I see this happening, or when people come to a class and then end up chatting a bit more and hanging out afterwards.
“We’ve also launched Hyrox classes that are aimed at equipping members with the skills to compete in those competitive events.
“Members can do those individually, just like the event, or they can team up with a partner and the classes are the perfect place to find someone to do that with.”
- Jon Massey is co-founder and editorial director of Wharf Life and writes about a wide range of subjects in Canary Wharf, Docklands and east London - contact via jon.massey@wharf-life.com
This article is part of Wharf Life’s new regular series on the benefits of Crossrail for those living or working in Canary Wharf, Docklands and east London
TASTE TEST
While Canary Wharf is replete with lunchtime dining options, the Elizabeth Line provides the ideal escape route for those keen to put some distance between themselves and the office.
It’s a short walk from Liverpool Street station, itself just seven minutes from the Wharf’s Crossrail stop, making it more than feasible as a dining option in the middle of the day.
It’s Aqua Restaurant Group’s fifth establishment in the capital and boasts more than 20 siblings worldwide in the likes of New York, Miami, Beijing, Dubai and Hong Kong.
Overseen by head chef Ken Miyake – a man of Japanese heritage who grew up in Spain – it offers diners a modern twist on sushi alongside a contemporary take on the classic bento box.
This is welcome news for a hungry Wharfer and I resolve to try one of the Lunch Sets, which all come with pickles and Okazu of the day as well as rice and Miso if you’re eschewing the ramen.
Shiro’s Pork Belly Ginger Teriyaki
Sampling starters first, Shiro quickly reveals itself as a place of homely comforts with Rock Shrimp Tempura (£13) a carefully balanced triumph.
The much vaunted Crystal Sushi – a dish invented in Hong Kong, where flavoured gelatine coatings are used to enhance the rice and fish pieces – turns out to be much more than just an Instagram gimmick, with the glossy coatings adding a real depth of flavour to the morsels on offer.
But somehow the distilled warmth of the Set eclipses the prettiness of the showstoppers. Ken’s Pork Belly Ginger Teriyaki, when served with its unfussy accompaniment of rice, marinated chicken, miso and a little pickle is a pretty decent deal for £19.
There’s the rich umami of the liquor the meat sits in and plenty of flavour in the sides to make it easily enough for a light lunch on its own and one well worth the short trip on Crossrail.
Shiro head chef Ken Miyake
HEAD CHEF SAYS – Ken Miyake
With nearly a decade under his belt working for Aqua and almost two in the UK, Ken is a softly spoken man who, despite the obvious complexity of some of his food, has a passion for simple carbs, family and the firey bite of ginger.
He said: “The idea of the Lunch Sets is that they are what your parents would have given you – some rice, soup, your protein and a pickle, which is good for your digestion.
“Then there’s something called an Okazu, which is a little nibble of something else. I’ll probably get in trouble for saying this but it’s like a tapa in Spain.
“My mother’s a chef. She used to cook for a family of 13 and then had a restaurant in Spain.
“We moved there in 1989 and in 1992 she opened up a restaurant in Marbella – one of the few places serving Japanese food there.
Crystal Sushi at Shiro
“I had to learn how to cook when I was living by myself – I went to university and I was cooking all the stuff I really liked at home.
“While I was there I ended up working in all these European restaurants and that set me on the path to becoming a chef.
“At Shiro we’re doing something different, modern. The ramen is good – it comes from a chef’s family recipe where the broth takes 48 hours.
“Personally, I would order the Pork Belly Ginger Teriyaki because ginger is good for the blood and you can’t go wrong.
“Then there’s the Crystal Sushi with a gelatine coating full of flavour – it looks very pretty and it gives you that extra taste.
“It was developed in Hong Kong about five years ago and we’ve now brought it to London.”
- Jon Massey is co-founder and editorial director of Wharf Life and writes about a wide range of subjects in Canary Wharf, Docklands and east London - contact via jon.massey@wharf-life.com
Canary Wharf has, as far as I know, only one takeaway brand that draws part of its identity from ancient mythology.
Atis takes its name from the Phrygian god of vegetation – a deity whose death and resurrection echoes the plants and trees that die in winter only to rise again in spring and whose cult spread from what is now Turkey through Greece to ancient Rome.
The branch the company recently opened in Canary Wharf is its fourth location but there are two more in the pipeline.
Evidence perhaps that its founders – husband and wife team Eleanor Warder and Phil Honer – would like to see the brand spread as widely as worship of its mythic namesake did in ancient times.
That, of course, will ultimately be down to the appeal of what it sells – bowls of salad with an approach inspired by time spent overseas.
“We lived in America for a bit before we launched the business in 2019,” said Eleanor. “Phil was doing an MBA there and I joined him.
“We’d always wanted to do something in food.
“Phil had worked in financial services in London after university and always felt there was something lacking – a place offering simple, fast, healthy, delicious food.
“They say America is always a step ahead and they have companies like Sweetgreen there which are huge – all over the west and east coasts.
“We went there and to similar places a lot when we were living in Boston – we drew inspiration from them.
“So we came back to the UK in the summer of 2018 and spent a year developing the concept.
“It was particularly difficult in the beginning – when we were unknown – and finding our first location took about a year, but we opened in Old Street in September 2019 before going on to launch sites in Belgravia and Notting Hill.
“We want to grow and expand. I’m not sure we’ll ever be the next Pret, although that would be fantastic.
“For us it’s about quality, brand and experience – so we have to keep that in mind as our company gets bigger.”
Atis is located in Canada Place’s Crossrail Walk
Atis does things a bit differently. About half of the unit it has taken in Canada Place’s Crossrail Walk – between Waitrose and the Elizabeth Line station – is filled with staff preparing and cooking the ingredients it serves.
On the other side, a production line stands ready to put together its core range of seasonal salad bowls ranging in price from £6.50-£9.60 for a regular or £7.50-£10.70 for a large.
There’s also an option for customers to build their own for £6.90 or £7.70.
Hot and cold premium ingredients are extra. The aim is to offer Wharfers filling, satisfying products that deliver on flavour – something Eleanor knows all about.
“We have worked with a really brilliant, creative chef to develop core bowls that are really interesting,” she said.
“When people walk in, they see the line is predominantly fresh produce.
“The colour is really important for us – and the taste – so people get the full experience of the food they are buying.
“We’re trying to create a balance between being innovative and giving people what they want. For example, people really love tomatoes, so we do them straight, rather than doctoring them.
“But then we have a section – our hot protein element – where we take things up another level cooking ingredients using lots of spices and marinades.
“This is our main selling point.
“You can have a bowl at Atis that is fully vegan or vegetarian
but people can also add our blackened chicken, for example.
“We toyed with the idea of being completely plant-based, but we decided against it because our ethos is that we shouldn’t cut out food groups.
“The idea is that people can have meat one day and choose not to on another – they have that flexibility.
“The most important thing is that whether it’s regular or large, our bowls leave people feeling satisfied and nourished.
“There’s this old idea that salads are potentially quite grim and won’t fill you up.
“We’re trying to change that so our customers feel what they are getting is satisfying, good value for the price and high on flavour.
“My background is in the wine trade, originally in a startup importing and selling to small independent restaurants in London before I moved into hospitality and became a sommelier.
“With Atis, my focus is very much on the food we serve, developing the menu and the marketing.
Atis co-founder Eleanor Warder
“Personally, I flip between ordering the core bowls, and then building my own.
“The latter is very popular, especially on our online platforms, which shows you that people do want control and flexibility over what they eat.”
While Atis probably has Eleanor’s joint honours degree in classics to thank for its name, its presence in Canary Wharf has more to do with Phil.
“Canary Wharf was already on our minds when we started the business,” said Eleanor.
“Phil was very keen and had identified it as a place that would be really good, and I think he was completely right.
“He had worked here, knew that there would be a demand for us and that there were other operators doing really well on the estate.
“The real appeal for us is that our customers are a balance between commercial and residential, and the vertical density of population on the estate is really great for our business.”
In addition to nourishment, sustainability is at the core of Atis’ operation.
Eleanor said: “It’s an area that’s increasingly important for us, as it should be, and it’s been a big learning curve – especially on the packaging front and it’s something customers expect.
“What we have found is that parts of the UK don’t necessarily have the infrastructure to be able to deal with recycling in the right way and that’s quite shocking.
“People think they’re doing good – putting their waste in the correct bin, but there’s a whole other side to it, which makes things challenging.
“Coming into Canary Wharf – which is right at the forefront of sustainability – we’ve learnt that everyone has to really concentrate on making sure what should be happening actually is.
“Obviously there is also the food itself. We are plant-powered and that’s a huge element when we’re talking about sustainability.
“The UK is a small country and we can’t get everything we use from these shores, but we do source whatever we can locally.
“We also have seasonal focus – changing our menu four times a year to reflect what’s available and considering carefully what we can get from the UK.
“Right from the outset we’ve also been working with different partners, one of which is Too Good To Go, which helps to pass on food that would otherwise go to waste at a reduced cost.”
Atis is open in Canada Place from 11am-9pm Mon-Thurs and 11am-3pm Fri-Sun.
The Azteca Bowl topped with blackened chicken
HOW IT TASTES
Azteca Bowl, £14.10 (£10.70 large bowl + £3.40 blackened chicken)
Large really does mean large when ordering from Atis.
The Azteca isn’t quite a bottomless bowl, but by the time I’m done munching through the (optional) blackened chicken, there’s little doubt the brand’s mission to fill me up is a success.
This is more than just unctuous slices of well-cooked protein draped over some leaves, however.
There’s real depth to the Azteca, coming as it does with black eyed beans, charred corn, baby spinach, chopped romaine lettuce, something called “sustain yo’self avo smash”, picked red onions, Feta cheese and some crumbled tortilla chips all topped off with a lime and coriander dressing.
At a chunky 965 calories without the chicken, it’s a pretty serious pot of food but there’s a freshness to it that makes good on all Atis’ fine words.
I’ve no idea what’s in the smash, but it’s delicious and comes together perfectly in a blend that’s balanced enough to let all the big ticket flavours have their space.
If the other salads are this good, Atis will rapidly find its place in the hearts of many Wharfers.
- Jon Massey is co-founder and editorial director of Wharf Life and writes about a wide range of subjects in Canary Wharf, Docklands and east London - contact via jon.massey@wharf-life.com
Stefan Johnson cuts an athletic figure on his cargo bike.
Sourced from a Danish company via the Netherlands, it has to be robust to carry the 60kg of equipment and tools he uses for business.
Raised in Mile End and Forest Gate, the east Londoner created SJ Cycles to bring bike repairs, care and servicing to clients at their convenience via the power of his legs.
“I’m trying to encourage people to maintain their bikes more often,” he said.
“A lot of people run their bikes into the ground and then have big bills of £200 or £300 or they just buy new ones, which can also cost them a lot of money.
“I’m trying to offer something in between – there are benefits to the customer and to the environment.
“Depending on usage, having a service every six to eight months and cleaning the bike makes a big difference.
“It’s not just about how your bike looks. Grit and muck on the road can get into the mechanics – the chain, the braking system – and it slowly wears away the metal.
“That can cause long-term damage, which equals new parts and that means big bills.
“It’s also wasteful, so I’m trying to prevent that happening – maintaining your bike more often will save you money.”
Stefan originally wanted to be a car mechanic before turning to bikes – image Matt Grayson
Stefan began riding himself while studying car maintenance at Hackney Community College – now part of New City College.
“I was planning on being a car mechanic, and after four years of study I went into an apprenticeship, but unfortunately I didn’t find any opportunities in that industry,” he said.
“Instead I got my first job as a sales assistant at my local bike shop – Halfords.
“There was a mechanic there who was willing to teach me after hours about working on bikes so that’s how I started.”
Stefan went on to work at a number of independent bike shops but felt he was often recruited in a bid to broaden their customer base as they attempted to attract customers from a wider range of backgrounds.
A pattern of mistreatment and broken promises left him wondering what to do.
“Being a Christian, I decided to pray about it and start again,” he said.
“Was I going to accept this behaviour in the industry or would I set new standards?
“I took a positive leap to be passionate about what I’m doing without sacrificing my humanity.
“My faith definitely played a big part in that.
“I knew about 10% I could get to the point of launching SJ Cycles – making a Facebook page, announcing I was doing it.
Stefan carries all the equipment he needs with him on a custom cargo bike – image Matt Grayson
“The other 90% was faith that I could sustain it, live off it and make it a part of my life.
“Even though I had less confidence in myself and more confidence in God, I took it forward, made it happen and I’m here now.
“I’d started working as a bike courier, which was a very flexible thing to do and allowed me to make enough money to live on.
“It was very hard work but it made the money so I could buy all the tools and equipment to start the business in 2017.”
Stefan offers a general Tune-Up Service for £45, which lasts about an hour and a half and includes diagnostic checks, brakes and gears tuning, tyre maintenance and a deep clean of the frame and various systems, delivered either at a client’s home or office as convenient.
SJ Cycles also offers a Puncture Repair Service for £25, which includes a new inner tube and the option to be taught how to change one.
While merchandise is also available online, world domination is not on the agenda.
“I’m a very simple man, so I’m not looking to be a big entrepreneur and expand with different branches and many employees around London,” said Stefan.
“This business is about encouraging people to maintain their bikes more, for me to live off it and remain in east London, take care of my wife and earn a modest living to make it sustainable.
“If anyone needs support in maintaining their bike, I post a lot of tips on Facebook and Instagram, such as advice on security.
“That’s just to let people know that when they own a bike they’re not alone and can talk to me about it on social media.
“I would definitely encourage people to get a bike.
Stefan can service bikes at customers’ homes or offices – image Matt Grayson
“It’s very convenient – one purchase, you buy your bike and you can go wherever you want. It’s great for fitness as well.
“You can jump on a bus and pay, but for some people – when you add that up – it’s as much as a bike over one year.
“I understand why people may be hesitant, because of the infrastructure of the roads, which may not be the safest, but it’s come a long way since I started.
“Then I didn’t have a lot of confidence in my abilities, but I was very aware of my surroundings, how the traffic flows and where to position myself – my confidence grew over time – it became quite natural to me.
“I do ride for pleasure but it depends on how much I’m working – the business can be quite busy, especially in the summertime.
“After a day of working on people’s bikes I like to go skateboarding, which is my second hobby, as well as bouldering – indoor climbing.
“I’m quite a physical person, so the bikes I ride aren’t electric – that and having a strong metabolism, definitely doesn’t make the food bills easy.”
- Jon Massey is co-founder and editorial director of Wharf Life and writes about a wide range of subjects in Canary Wharf, Docklands and east London - contact via jon.massey@wharf-life.com
Dishoom is different. Over the course of 18 years in journalism, I’ve asked countless people to tell me about their businesses.
Typically they communicate how they came to start their company, what it does and why.
However, when asked to tell me about the opening of Dishoom Canary Wharf, which recently arrived at Wood Wharf, the brand’s co-founder Shamil Thakrar simply said: “It’s a story.”
A simple, but completely serious point. This is no marketing flim flam.
Before the company opens a new restaurant, its founders sit down and develop its back story in detail – a fact that hints at why this is the brand’s first opening in London for five years.
But why not? After all, isn’t everything, to some extent, stories?
The ones we tell ourselves to understand the things around us, the ones we tell others to explain the world to them and the ones they tell us to illuminate their own impressions.
We grow up being read and reading them and seeing and hearing them on all kinds of platforms. Now we are increasingly encouraged to create our own myths via social media.
Dishoom’s approach, which sees each individual cafe fleshed out exactly in line with its narrative, has won the brand significant success.
It’s known for patient lines of eager customers outside its venues and has a reputation as a generous employer that looks after its staff.
You can visit the Canary Wharf branch without knowing any of the back story – nobody will refuse to serve you and the spiced chai will still taste great.
But, so rich is the narrative, that it permeates the whole experience, making it impossible to spend time in the restaurant without feeling its impact, even if that is subconscious.
Every detail of the interior flows from the back story at Dishoom Canary Wharf – image Matt Grayson
“The story of the Canary Wharf cafe is a bloke – Nauzer – who has been living as a character in my head for quite a few years,” said Shamil. “Now the right place has come up for him.
“He’s a really cool young guy, whose father owns an Irani cafe near the Bombay Stock Exchange.
“He sees some of the high rollers coming in and thinks he wants to be like them. He’s quite a canny kid, so eventually learns how to invest and does quite well for himself.
“Then his family, friends and the local community start asking him to invest on their behalf. He does that and does really well – he makes good money for them and they’re getting wealthier, until one day, he does a bad deal and everything goes south.
“He doesn’t want to tell anyone because he’s so embarrassed and that sense of shame he has, which is an Indian thing, means he can’t face them – so he invents a Ponzi scheme where new investments are used to pay out fake returns to existing investors.
“Everything seems fine, even though it’s built on lies.
“Anyway, he makes the scheme work for a while and, with the winnings, he builds this restaurant – we imagine it’s his, hence the 1970s Bombay feel of the decor.
Dishoom Canary Wharf also sells items such as chai, condiments and cookbooks – image Matt Grayson
“He invests in art and other cool stuff, and his friends are up-and-coming stars. It’s a place for them.
“In the story we join him one day when he’s stressed out. The phone is ringing, he’s sweating and I imagine him in his room, traumatised because a journalist is on to him and that’s who’s calling – that’s where the story begins.”
Dishoom has now published all three instalments of the hapless investor’s tale on its website – but it’s in the restaurant where things really take shape.
Walk in and you’re immediately hit by the scent of burning incense, the energy of a bustling bar and bright smiles all round as staff guide diners to their tables.
Everywhere there’s activity – it’s not much of a stretch to imagine this as an establishment just over the road from the busy stock exchange in Bombay.
But there’s more. Look deeper and you’ll find house rules on the wall that outlaw Ponzi schemes, historically accurate ads in the menus, coloured porcelain in the washrooms and modernist 1970s decor.
The bar is called the Permit Room, recalling the legal hoops owners had to jump through to serve booze and there’s also a Family Room – an echo of the only spaces women were allowed to access in Irani cafes of old – complete with vintage photos of the owners’ relatives.
Everywhere there’s detail aimed at placing the visitor snugly inside the narrative.
The bar serves a “scandalous” trio of miniature Martinis dubbed The Commander, The Lover and The Wife, inspired by a jealous Parsi naval officer who shot the man his other half was seeing illicitly before turning himself in.
There’s a glint in Shamil’s eyes as we talk – it’s just this sort of material that reflects Dishoom’s flair for the dramatic – ultimately all part of the owners’ ambition that visiting the restaurant should be a memorable experience.
“The most important thing, regardless of whether the restaurant is busy or not, is whether the guests are leaving happy and sated,” said Shamil.
“We have to create the conditions that allow diners to have an experience that’s amazing and that they are going to tell all their friends about.
“The best way to do that is to make sure our team is happy and that’s our job.
The Permit Room bar at Dishoom Canary Wharf – image Matt Grayson
“We have really good people working for us who have an enormous amount of heart and determination in the current economic environment, so the right thing for us to do is look after them.
“Then, collectively we look after our guests and that, hopefully, keeps people coming back.
“We are conscious that sometimes we have a lot of people who stand in line for our food in queues – it’s lovely to have that although sometimes I’m embarrassed by making them wait.
“But we’re providing something people really want, and the key to that is to make sure that our food is really fantastic, our spaces are wonderful and our service is really warm – that is all down to supporting our team.
“That’s something we’ve been thinking about ever since we started the business. Running the company, it’s our responsibility to make sure our staff really love and enjoy the environment they’re working in.
“We like to pay well, but we also make sure we look after the other benefits – the less tangible stuff – so we do regular mental health workshops, for example.
“Then a little while ago, we had the idea for The Bombay Boot Camp where we’d take anyone who stayed with us for five years to the city and show them all the good places.
“We didn’t know whether we would ever take anyone when we started, but this year we’re taking 180 people.
“Some of the places we visit can only fit 15 or 20 people so we don’t quite know how the logistics will work yet, but it’s a trip that money can’t buy because we work really hard to visit places people would never normally go and that everyone who does feels special, welcome and rewarded for the work they do.”
Mini Martinis: The Commander, The Wife and The Lover at Dishoom
For Wharfers who can’t get over to Mumbai itself, Dishoom serves up an expansive menu of flavours to transport diners in spirit.
“We bring guests into the story and give them food and drink,” said Shamil.
“But the dishes and beverages we serve also have their own stories.
“My cousin Kavi and I now run the business and, when we were setting things up, we came across the heritage of the old Irani cafes, set up by Parsi immigrants from Iran.
“We wanted to pay homage to them, their inclusive ethos and spirit, while at the same time riffing on the stories of Bombay.
“Take Pau Bhaji, for example. It’s mashed up vegetables with buttered Portuguese buns.
“There were colonists from Portugal in Bombay and their influence has become part of the city’s most delicious dish – all those stories are there.
“I think placing food in its cultural context is very important – you come along, eat it with the right music amid the right architecture – I want to give people a real taste of Bombay.
“We, the British, think we know India, and there are a number of cliches – Bollywood, cricket, curry houses, palaces, maharajahs, but I’m not sure that Britain really does know India.
Dishoom Canary Wharf features 1970s-style furniture – image Matt Grayson
“Do we know about the Bombay Stock Exchange, or that there was a great Art Deco movement post independence that signified liberty and modernity, to get rid of the old gothic architecture?
“On the food side, where we think of India as curry, there’s so much more. We don’t serve that much of what we would call curry today because there are so many other things to be said.
“Canary Wharf isn’t exactly a natural fit for us, but we’re excited to be here.
“The architecture in Wood Wharf, especially, is very cool, and I think we can bring a bit of fun and pizazz to this end of town.
“Then we’ve got a couple more good stories that we’re dreaming up for future openings.”
Dishoom Canary Wharf is open from 8am until at least 11pm on weekdays (midnight on Friday and Saturday and from 9am at weekends.
Dishoom co-founder Kavi Thakrar has selected his favourite dishes to order for Wharf Life readers
KAVI’S MENU PICKS
With so much on the menu, we went straight to the top and asked Dishoom co-founder Kavi Thakrar to pick out a few of his favourite dishes to help Wharfers make their own decisions:
1. First, the Malai Lobster. this is only available at Canary Wharf. It’s a great dish to share with friends as it feels celebratory, but won’t break the bank. Fresh daily from Billingsgate, it transports me to some of my favourite spots in Bombay to eat fresh seafood.
Malai Lobster – Priced by weight at £7.50 per 100g
Malai Lobster, £7.50 per 100g at Dishoom Canary Wharf
2. Chilli Cheese Toast. We took this off the menu for a while but I’m so happy to see it back. It’s totally delicious with a Dishoom IPA – a sneaky snack when I’m by myself, just like sitting in an Irani Cafe at the end of a long day in south Bombay.
Chilli Cheese Toast – £5.70
Chilli Cheese Toast, £5.70 at Dishoom Canary Wharf
3. And finally, I really love our Double Bacon And Egg Naan Roll. It is a great match of salty, sweet, a little heat and then the richness from the egg. I love having it with a house chai if I start my day at Dishoom
- Jon Massey is co-founder and editorial director of Wharf Life and writes about a wide range of subjects in Canary Wharf, Docklands and east London - contact via jon.massey@wharf-life.com
Around about the start of the first Covid-19 lockdown in 2020, Christabelle Lomas found herself trapped in India having just finished training as a Yoga teacher.
Short on funds from various attempts to leave the country, she approached a group of strangers at the airport for help.
With international flights cancelled, they suggested she take an internal connection with the aim of heading to eco-resort Bhakti Kutir in South Goa as a refuge from the ravages of the pandemic.
One of the group had a friend staying there – Jules – and gave Christabelle her details.
As the world shut down, Christabelle began receiving calls from concerned friends, one also knew Jules and gave her another contact at the resort, a man called Samuel Miller.
She reached out to him midway through a tortuous journey to get to the resort and he was there to greet her.
However, with the threat of disease at the forefront of everyone’s minds, she isolated for two weeks before eventually joining the group properly.
“When I first arrived there I was in this jungle hut and Sam was bringing me my meals and water,” said Christabelle.
“I was really grateful and I meditated a lot, practised Yoga and found myself surrounded by inspiration.
“Then I came out, we hung out. It was all lovely and then they started sending rescue flights, but I wasn’t quite ready to be rescued.”
The book draw’s inspiration from the couple’s time in India
While pulled in different directions, artist Sam ultimately decided to board a flight back to London,
“I came back three months later to London and we reconnected,” said Christabelle.
“I’d written this book and I was looking for someone to do the illustrations – Sam’s a fabulous artist so it made sense to ask him.”
Christabelle’s story follows the journey of Rainbow Snake as he attempts to discover what love is by seeking wisdom from a succession of other creatures he meets along the way.
She and Sam collaborated – he produced 12 paintings for the book – and fell in love as they continued their work together, inspired by their experiences in India.
“There was a little snake in the roof of one of the jungle huts in Goa,” said Sam, who is based on a glass-roofed boat at Hackney Wick.
“Then there were a lot more when the monsoons came. We also found this weird little beetle that turned out to be a scorpion.
“Having read the book, I just wanted to deepen the words and open them out with mysticism, jungle magic and strange things.
“I’d been painting jungles for ages so doing this book was very apt. Normally I would take a lot of time to create a piece, and this task was to do 12, which is a big body of work.
“At first I was worried the paintings were too dark, too melancholic for children, but you have stories like Grimms’ Fairy Tales, which are just awful and this is actually a very sweet story.”
Detail from one of Sam’s paintings for Rainbow Snake
“It’s quite hard to bottle up the magic,” added Shoreditch resident Christabelle.
“The book is very enchanting and has a beautiful message. People often ask what age it’s for, but I suppose it touches people of all ages.
“It’s a message about trusting your inner guidance rather than looking outwards, and that was a big theme for the times we went through during the pandemic – it was a time for introspection.
“In the end, love carries you through. Rainbow Snake goes on his quest and everyone he talks to has a different interpretation of what love is.
“He wonders how it can possibly be all of these things but then comes to his own conclusion.
“He’s slithering around trying to find answers and is about to give up when he finds what he’s looking for within himself.
“I’m quite a deep thinker, with a creative mindset, and I’m always looking for answers to the meaning of life and love.
“I’ve worked with children quite a lot and they have inspired me, so that’s where this piece of writing came from.
“Although it’s a book that is mostly for children, the artwork and the messages are there for everyone.
“Being in the city, it’s easy to get wrapped up in things, but looking at the stars and all the animals can help you put things into perspective.
Rainbow Snake: Adventures In Love is on sale now for £22.11
“Hopefully, the pictures and the words will expand people’s minds. I write a lot of personal projects, but this is the first piece I’ve put out there.”
Sam has been a painter since he was a child, creating work from his east London base despite the recent winter chill that saw the glass roof of his boat freeze inside and out.
“My canal boat at Hackney Wick is a studio space I’ve built myself – a project I took on when I got back from India,” he said.
“It’s like a Disney palace, a place that’s pretty mad, but it was a lot of fun to do.
“I painted as a kid and just never stopped. Then I went to the Royal Academy Of The West Of England and have continued to work ever since.”
Rainbow Snake: Adventures In Love is published by Christabelle Lomas and Samuel Miller and is currently available online, priced £22.11.
The couple have promised to donate 1.2% of their profits to the Indian Wildlife Trust.
- Jon Massey is co-founder and editorial director of Wharf Life and writes about a wide range of subjects in Canary Wharf, Docklands and east London - contact via jon.massey@wharf-life.com
Health and fitness clubs are, at their root, about maintenance and change.
Nobody joins a gym to see their body deteriorate or their performance decline.
We want to stay in condition and see steady progress towards our goals.
Similarly, people expect their clubs to provide that – they have the right equipment, classes, facilities and staff to help them get to where they want to be.
Members at Third Space in Canary Wharf will pay £220 per month from January 2023 for access to Europe’s largest luxury health club.
The task of ensuring the Canada Square facility consistently meets their expectations falls to general manager David Burrow.
“We are constantly upgrading – there are always new things coming onto the market, so it’s about asking how we can use them and whether it’s right to have them,” he said.
“We get loads of feedback from our members and we use that to consider what to do next so we can offer an even broader range than what’s already here.”
The club is currently in the midst of a major update that’s seen it refresh the decor and equipment in its free weights and weights machines areas.
It’s halfway through upgrading its vast cardiovascular training areas and is already looking forward to the crowning glory of the project, which will be the remodelling of its changing areas, saunas and steam rooms.
Third Space Canary Wharf general manager David Burrow
David said: “We started with free weights, which we have completely refurbished with new flooring and lighting.
“We have all-new equipment from a company called Eleiko, who are the best in the industry and a firm we’d already been working with in our Olympic weightlifting areas.
“As part of this project we took the opportunity to review what equipment we had, what was best in class and what we wanted to acquire.
“So for our pin-loaded machines we have replaced our offering with products from a company called Pulse.
“It’s an English firm who have been brilliant where we’ve wanted modifications.
“Their machines feature a digital read-out, which gives users a guide to their range of motion alongside feedback.
“That’s what most people are looking for – members can see how they’re performing, how they can do better and get reassurance that they’re using the machine correctly.
“Of course our staff are always on hand to help people with any of the equipment on the gym floor.
“We think Pulse’s machines are great for people at all levels – you can sit on one even if you’re brand new to fitness and be confident that what you’re doing is correct.
“Many people who join a health and fitness club will be slightly nervous, but having the ability to know that they can just plug the pin in, push or pull the equipment and see that their range of movement is correct, is very comforting.
“Our aim is to make everything as simple as possible for advanced athletes or complete beginners.
“The idea is that people can use it without needing to speak to someone or to watch dozens of YouTube videos, so the focus is always on the exercise.”
This philosophy underpins everything David and the team at Third Space do.
While the update will see major changes and improvements to the club, many will be barely perceived directly by members – designed instead to create an overall sense of wellbeing in the gym and its facilities.
An artist’s impression of how the upgraded changing rooms will look
“Next year we’ll be upgrading the changing rooms, which is pretty much the biggest thing you can do with the club still open,” said David.
“We’re changing the lighting completely, which is one of the things members probably won’t notice.
“It will be linked to the circadian rhythm – it will change throughout the day so the amount of illumination will feel right to people in a way they can’t quite quantify.
“With a club like this there’s a great amount of work that goes on in the background to create the correct atmosphere.
“The carpet is also being ripped out and we’re having a beautiful new floor.
“Again, it’s something people will walk over, but we’ve spent six months testing products to ensure people won’t slip and that it can be cleaned effectively.
“We’ve gone to enormous lengths to find the right flooring because once it’s down it’s impossible to replace.
“There’s been a huge amount of cooperation between our designers, architects and operations people to make sure it’s fit for purpose.
“It may look beautiful on day one, but we’re interested in day two, day 200, day 2,000 – can it cope with the footfall and trolleys with towels rolling over it every single day.
“That’s why we test and test and test until we’re certain.”
David has been working in the fitness industry for nearly a quarter of a century which has included building his own business in the Netherlands and stints at director level for big chains.
He came to Third Space six years ago, attracted by the opportunity to do the job he loves.
Third Space Canary Wharf’s free weights area now has Eleiko equipment
“For me it’s about the day-to-day interaction and operation,” he said. “When this job came up it was quite an easy choice.
“The challenge of a club this big is unique – there’s nothing else that’s the same.
“I’ve worked in incredible clubs for incredible companies, but there’s no club like this – the range of products, the range of offerings and the challenges that creates.
“I love that I have the opportunity to build and grow this club and I’m extremely lucky to work with the most incredible group of colleagues I’ve ever worked with.
“Members join this club because it has all the toys, but they stay because of the people – the atmosphere really is amazing.”
The upgrade should make it even easier for Third Space to foster that atmosphere with lighting that can be controlled via Bluetooth across the club.
The new cardio area features top of the range Technogym equipment and an updated layout with a more open-plan design.
“The project also features new Woodway treadmills and an upgraded Wattbike studio.
“Personally I’ve reached an age where I like to mix my exercise sessions up,” said David.
“I do a static cardio day, a strength stability day – something like TRX – and some kind of Hiit-based session. Those three will be locked in and then I will do something I feel I need.
“That might be something strength-based, followed by a steam room or sauna.
“Sometimes it’s about that balance between physical and mental health – asking what is right for me at that moment?
“As you mature, you learn to listen to your body more and I’ve definitely got better at that.”
In addition to the remodelling of the floors in the changing rooms, the upgrade also includes new showers, steam rooms and saunas to help members relax and refresh themselves after their workouts.
An artist’s impression of how the new saunas will look
“It’s the ultimate part of the whole project and it will come in at the beginning of next year,” said David.
“We’ve got high budgets and a high number of members who all, quite rightly, have high expectations.
“That means we have to deliver an experience to them while the work is going on that is acceptable, while totally renovating the facility.
“That is a challenge but one I am confident we can meet – a lot of research and preparation goes into getting things right here – everything should feel great without people knowing exactly why or realising how much work there is behind it.
“It’s not just about chucking new equipment in – we’d never do things that way.
“Then, after everything is finished, and with Wood Wharf opening in due course, it will be about asking how the two Canary Wharf sites complement each other to offer even more.
“There’s always something that needs considering, updating or improving – but I love it.”
- Jon Massey is co-founder and editorial director of Wharf Life and writes about a wide range of subjects in Canary Wharf, Docklands and east London - contact via jon.massey@wharf-life.com
“We know the game is the thing that captures you and why you want to come, but once you’re there we want people to feel that they don’t want to leave,” said Jon Calabrese, operations director at Clays.
The virtual shooting venue is set to open its second branch in Canary Wharf in December, following the success of its debut in Moorgate.
The new bar will be located overlooking West India North Dock on the ground of One Cabot Square – a building it shares with Credit Suisse – and is set for an official launch in January.
It will offer 90-minute digital clay target shooting for groups of up to 22 people in semi-private or completely private pegs.
With five games to choose from, it’s the latest in a succession of hospitality businesses in Canary Wharf to put competitive socialising at the heart of their operation.
It’s a trend that’s here to stay as people look for venues that offer other attractions besides food and drink.
“The foundation of what we’re doing is the target shooting game and the quality of that experience is really important to us,” said Jon.
“We wanted to make it as authentic as possible and it’s incredible.
“Clay target shooting is great and I would encourage anyone to go and try it.
Clays operations director Jon Calabrese
“What we wanted to do was to create something immersive in the heart of London that would reflect that experience.
“Players use real guns that have been decommissioned with all of our technology that tracks them and delivers accuracy to within less than a millimetre.
“The clays within the game are subject to wind, aerodynamics and gravity and players stand in front of a three by four-metre screen.
“It’s honestly as though you’re standing in the English countryside and we control the sound and images so we can adapt to the weather outside.
“In autumn, for example, you’ll see leaves falling. We’ll keep working on the experience to make it even better.”
Clays, which was founded by CEO Tom Snellock in 2019, is expanding its operation following the warm reception customers have given its Moorgate branch.
Jon said coming to Canary Wharf was an obvious decision for the business.
“I grew up in north-east London and I’ve been coming to the estate for about 20 years,” he said.
“Even then on a sunny day it was absolutely alive.
“I think there’s this perception with Canary Wharf that’s it’s very much a business district, and at the weekend it’s dead, and that couldn’t be further from the truth.
“There are incredible residential hubs locally, shopping areas, amazing hospitality operators here and the Elizabeth Line has just come in.
“I think it’s one of the fastest moving parts of London and with the density of people here it’s a no-brainer. It’s almost better to ask: ‘Why wouldn’t you want to be here?’.”
While the game is central to Clays’ appeal, there’s more to the venue than blasting away at virtual targets.
As the son of celebrated bartender Salvatore Calabrese, Jon has a pretty robust background in hospitality but initially spent time pursuing a different path.
Having embarked on a career in the fitness industry as a personal trainer, he joined the Met after a former girlfriend’s father – who happened to be on the murder squad – turned Jon’s head with stories of his work.
But, having worked as a police officer in Newham for three years, the world of restaurants, bars and hotels proved irresistible and quite a contrast to his time wearing a uniform.
One of the pegs at Clays’ Moorgate branch
“When I came to hospitality in 2009, it was anarchy – chaos,” he said.
“People would work hard and be rewarded with management roles – then they’d have to work out how to do them.
“That meant often you’d either get people with authoritarian approaches or micro managers because they’d have imposter syndrome, which was weird.
“At Clays we have a career tree approach that means we will give people the skills and knowledge they need to be a departmental expert and to hone your craft.
“We won’t hinder you if you want to move between departments and try different things either.
“Ultimately we want to grow a business with culture, consistency and expertise so we can deliver on customers’ expectations at a very high level of quality.
“We want people to come to Clays for the game, but then to stay for the food and drink they’ve enjoyed alongside that experience.
“On the drinks side we use techniques such as clarification to produce crystal clear liquids we can pour like a coke but that have an amazing taste and mouth feel.
“That means we can maintain our rapid speed of service without sacrificing quality.
“These are the kinds of things you only see in small artisan bars.
“Our cocktails are signatures and what is important for us is the quality of ingredients and that our drinks reflect the British countryside using produce grown and created in this country wherever possible”
Players use real decommissioned shotguns to play
Wharfers can expect tipples such as Clay Burst, a sweet and sour pink gin creation, Jack’s Orchard, combining the taste of toffee apples with a whisky kick, and the Precision Punch, a banana spiced rum cocktail.
Food-wise, Clays will serve a menu created by culinary director Roger Olsson formerly of The Dorchester, The Ritz and Pied A Terre.
Dishes include Sweetcorn Ribs with paprika salt and a lemon and chilli dip, Cobble Lane Charcuterie and “KFC” tempura cauliflower as well as Loaded Breads topped with Middle Eastern, Indian and Italian flavours.
Jon said where possible Clays would use produce for the UK with a focus on sustainability, quality and provenance.
“We know the farms where our vegetables are grown and our meat is produced and the boats that catch our fish,” he said.
“You’ll find old favourites like scotch eggs and the calamari is melt-in your mouth.
“Everything is made in-house – it’s about elevating the calibre of the experience.
“Next year we’ll be installing an outdoor terrace so guests will walk in through green foliage, an outdoor bar and past heated tables.
“Then the venue itself is on several levels.
“There will be a tree house where a DJ will play, a reception desk with living moss under a glass top, a bar with a 3D scene that plays on the English countryside and the pegs themselves.
“The main bar is at the far end of the venue and looks over to West India Quay. There are also three pegs that can be closed off privately with bi-fold doors for private parties when needed.”
Clays is taking bookings from December 13 online.
The Canary Wharf branch has eight pegs with off-peak bookings for small groups starting at £30 for an hour’s play.
Peak rates for groups of six to 22 cost £70 for 90 minutes of play.
Jon and the team have developed the drinks menu at Clays
- Jon Massey is co-founder and editorial director of Wharf Life and writes about a wide range of subjects in Canary Wharf, Docklands and east London - contact via jon.massey@wharf-life.com
There’s something of the showman about founder JJ Goodman and almost the first thing he does when I turn up for our interview is to energetically swing each pendant by its metal shade out into the bar above the heads of customers.
“We had similar lights at Covent Garden and one night we swung them and the place went off,” he said. “It’s been a thing ever since.”
That’s why you’ll see staff throwing the light fittings around at the Canary Wharf branch. While the company JJ founded is now part of emerging hospitality giant Nightcap PLC – which also owns The Adventure Bar Group and Barrio Familia – this simple anarchic act is a reminder that there’s personality woven through the links of the chain.
Bartenders get to pick the music and each branch gets a bespoke interior, the Wharf’s being heavy on stained glass, graffiti and low lighting.
The drinks it serves combine theatre with precision – a mixture aimed at pleasing both serious drinkers and those up for a heady party.
Old favourites – Mojitos and Espresso Martinis, for example – cost £9.75, while more complex creations are about £13.
These include the likes of the Truffletini – a blend of rum, coffee liqueur, tonka bean syrup and espresso with a chocolate truffle sat on the side of the glass.
It’s a menu that in many ways encompasses JJ’s history as a bartender.
The interior of the Canary Wharf branch – image Matt Grayson
“I’ve been a barman since I was about 16 in my old home town of Worcester,” he said. “I made my first cocktails when I was 17 – it was a Grasshopper.
“There was a shitty little manual on the back of the bar where I worked so I decided to learn to make a few drinks.
“If someone wanted something interesting, I’d make a drink full of sugar and covered in umbrellas and that was good fun.
“Then I got into the Flair world – spinning bottles, all of that. I started entering and winning competitions.”
But JJ was serious too. Moving to London he immersed himself in the bar industry, going on to win the Cocktail World Cup in 2008.
That was the same year he and business partner James Hopkins featured on and won BBC’s The Restaurant and opened the Covent Garden Cocktail Club.
The TV show connected the pair to chef Raymond Blanc and Dragon’s Den investor Sarah Willingham, who became the founder and CEO of Nightcap in 2021 – now The Cocktail Club’s parent company.
“We’ve got 18 branches now alongside the other brands and I think we’ve stumbled on a really nice home for ourselves at Canary Wharf,” said JJ.
“In due course we’d love to bring the rest of Nightcap’s crew to the party.
Finished drinks at the Cabot Square venue – image Matt Grayson
“The area has evolved so much and so quickly in the last couple of years. In terms of hospitality, you now have the top operators in the country and arguably Europe, here.
“We’ve found a brilliantly engaged audience, and if you’re really passionate about what you do, you want to be in the mix, shoulder to shoulder with the best guys out there.
“I’m excited for everyone in Canary Wharf to come, check us out and let their hair down.
“There’s a lot of madness going on in the world, and I promise we’re a fabulous little escape for them, as many times a week as they fancy it.
“We stand out from everybody else on the high street – there are plenty of places where you can go and have a quiet drink with your mates or that after-work catch-up with someone you haven’t seen for a time. We’re never going to compete with that.
“When you create a space with such high energy and fuel it with enough booze, you’re going to make new memories. People will leave their inhibitions at the door.
“So I feel like you should be able to come in here in whatever you want to wear, with whoever you want to come in with.
“We’ve got a really broad demographic as well – it’s a place where you can have a giggle, have some fun, and that’s encouraged by our staff.”
It’s also encouraged by the menu which starts with familiar drinks and delivers a twist.
“We wrote it post-lockdown,” said JJ.
“We looked at our top six classic best-selling cocktails, including the Old Fashioned and the Martini, and we chose to take each of those on a journey.
“So, we’ve got the house classic, then we’ve got the top shelf, where we experiment with more premium brands, and then we’ve got the theatre section, which we championed in the years before Instagram.
“If you love a Mojito, you can go on a journey of discovery, with fabulous variations on something that you know and love and trust.
A bartender creates a drink at The Cocktail Club – image Matt Grayson
“I think trust is really important when you’re charging people £10-£14 a drink – you really have to deliver something great.
“So what we chose to do is present the menu in such a way that people can feel comfortable travelling through a few variations on something they already love.”
Like every business, The Cocktail Club faces staffing pressures and is addressing that through education.
“We launched the Nightcap Bar Academy this year at a facility in Camden with another one on the way in Shoreditch,” said JJ.
“The idea is that we can take people with limited experience and show them the way we like to work.
“Lots of young people have missed out on being exposed to nightlife due to the pandemic and I really feel for them.
“What we can do is educate them on the style of service we give so they can see a career in this industry.
“Being behind the bar is my happy place and I really miss it loads.
“But we strive for very high standards and I’m a bit rusty so I wouldn’t want to embarrass myself, although I’d love it.”
That said, JJ can’t suppress his anarchic edge completely, slapping lampshades and ordering shots for everyone behind the bar, all the while keeping a careful eye on the quality of the drinks going out.
This is carefully choreographed wildness and it’s great.
One of The Cocktail Club’s infamous swinging lampshades – image Matt Grayson
- Jon Massey is co-founder and editorial director of Wharf Life and writes about a wide range of subjects in Canary Wharf, Docklands and east London - contact via jon.massey@wharf-life.com
